A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● RAISING AND GROOMING FRY

Keep A Diary

Write down everything that has to do with breeding and progress of your ranchu. Documenting when and what is a good practice and creates an important database for your future reference.

Water Temperature During Hatching

68 F (20°C) is optimal water temperature for developing fertilized eggs. If the temperature is lover, fry will not hatch all at the same time and there will be a high percentage of malformed fish. Temperatures above 68 F (20°C) will induce egg development, resulting in higher percentage of tail regression to original "wild" carp. Controlling water temperature by shading and/or using a heater is necessary.

Water temperature and timing from spawning till hatching:

• 57 F (14°C) - hatching on the 7th day 
• 61 F (16°C) - hatching on the 6th day 
• 64 F (18°C) - hatching in 5 ½ days 
• 68 F (20°C) - hatching on the 5th day 
• 71 F (22°C) - hatching in 4 ½ days 
• 75 F (24°C) - hatching on the 4th day 

Watch the water quality, as it can deteriorate quickly after spawning, due to unfertilized eggs and milt remains. It is best to transfer the eggs or change water right after spawning and keep the temperature constant at 68 F (20°C). In some cases, adding drops of methylene blue helps to prevent fungal growth on ranchu eggs.

Feeding The Fry

The fry are born with a yolk sac that provides them with nutrients for a couple of days. Start feeding the fry on the 2nd day after hatching.

It is very important to provide enough food for the fry to keep up with their high growth rate. When feeding live food, the portion size is not important. The fry must eat as much as they need and any time they want. Digestion time is short. There should be a constant supply of live food, as it gets eaten from morning till evening. One of the most accessible live foods for fry is freshly hatched brine shrimp. Read more on brine shrimp here.

When feeding frozen food or micro pallets, the portion size need to be observed, as overfeeding can spoil the water fast. A single dose should be of what fry can eat in 5 min. Digestion time is longer. Intervals between feedings must reflect digestion times, but feeding must be preformed often.

Water Changes & Fry

It is very important to keep constant temperature during the water changes. Even small temperate fluctuations may weaken or kill very sensitive at this stage fry. Also, watch the aeration. Strong aeration can damage the fry, adequately adjust air pump pressure to minimize any water turbulence. 

Its best not to transfer very young fry during the water change, but scoop as much water as you can and replace it with fresh. When fry has grown a little it will handle the transfer better, still be very carful scooping it during the water change, to prevent any injury. At this time it is best to have two containers and alternate them during the water change.

Filamentous Green Algae & Fry

Due to higher stocking density and/or food left in the water, filamentous green algae or Spirogyra can grow very rapidly. This algae produces long hair-like strings and if eaten by fry will get stuck in their small bodies, coming out through the gills or vent. It can not be removed and will eventually kill the fry.

Adjusting stocking density, regular water changes and cleaning the container will keep it under control.

Growth Rate

Learn to determine proper stocking density. This will insure that the fry doesn’t die and will promote faster development. Balancing the amount of food and stocking density is important for a healthy development of the fry and to prevent a number of diseases.

It is important to make fry growing as fast as possible. For example, for the fish hatched in April, a goal would be to have the fish reaching 4 in (10 cm) in length by the fall. 

Growth rate of the fry indicating its healthy development:

• 1st week - 3/8 in (10mm) 
• 2nd week - 1/2 in (13 mm) 
• 3rd week - 5/8 in (16 mm) 
• 1st month - 6/8 in (20 mm) 
• 7/8 in (22 mm) increase in the 2nd month - 1 5/8 in (42 mm) 
• 1/2 in (13 mm) increase in the 3rd month - 2 1/8 in (55 mm) 
• 5/8 in (15 mm) increase in the 4th month - 2 6/8 in (70 mm) 
• 5/8 in (15 mm) increase in the 5th month - 3 3/8 in (85 mm) 
• 1/2 in (12 mm) increase in the 6th month - 3 2/8 in (97 mm) 
• 5/16 in (8 mm) increase in the 7th month - 4 1/8 in (105 mm) 

If you have achieved the above growth rates, look for more ways to improve. If you are behind these growth rates, increase one or all of the following:

• food amount 
• water changes 
• adjust stocking density

Effect of Stocking Density On Tosai Ranchu

Always pay attention to stocking density for the fry in its first year. High density will cause illness in fish and delays in development. During this period you want for the fish to grow lengthwise and loosen stiffness in their tails. Do regular water changes before water spoils. Regularly remove waist and uneaten food.

High Density:
movement is restricted, high probability of gill disease, growth is slow, rapid water quality deterioration, tail shoulders and core remain hard and make it difficult to swim

Somewhat Low Density:
water quality is maintained, chances of illness are low, growth is higher in width and normal in length, competitive spirit and appetite is good, only tail core softens.

Low Density:
water may deteriorate causing illness even though it looks clean, growth in length is much suppressed, vertical growth is slower. Due to lack of competition between the ranchu, their appetite is lower, they swim less and because of that both tail shoulders and core remains stiff

Appropriate Density:

water quality is maintained, growth is accelerated in both length and width, better appetite and good competitive spirit, swims more. Both tail shoulders and core softening which helps to swim better. Adjust stocking density by culling. It is important to identify quality ranchu as early as possible to maintain appropriate stocking density. 

Appropriate ranchu count per 3.3 ft² (1 m²) container that is 4 in (10 cm) gradually increasing to 10 in (25 cm) deep:

• up to 0.6 in (1.5 cm) long fish - up to 100
• 0.8 in (2 cm) long fish - up to 60
• 1 1/8 in (3 cm) long fish - up to 50
• 1 5/8 in (4 cm) long fish - up to 40
• 2 3/8 in (6 cm) long fish - up to 20
• 4 in (10 cm) long fish - up to 5 

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● FEEDING REGIMENT

Amount of Food & Water temperature

Ranchu's physiological functions are greatly affected by the ambient water temperature. It is very important to adjust food type and amount in accordance with the water temperature. If not fed correctly, ranchu might develop indigestion problems and their immune system may get weaken, making them prone to decease.

• 32-43 F (0-6°C) - fish hibernate, no food is required
• 44-54 F (7-12°C) - physiological functions are slow; give only small amount of easily digestible food
• 55-64 F (13-18°C) - physiological functions are not to their fullest; increase the food amount carefully; use easily digestible food
• 65-75 F (19-24°C) - fish is active, food amount must be increased 
• 76-86 F (25-30°C)- very active growth; provide enough food, but watch for signs of obesity 
• 87-97 F (31-36°C) - fish appetite is lower; provide appropriate amount of food
• 98-100 F (37-38°C) - upper limit of water temperature for ranchu
• above 100 F (38°C) - temperature is harmful for ranchu

Feeding Depends On the Weather & Seasons

Adjust amount of food according to the weather and season, especially for the fish kept outside. If the water temperature changes due to the air temperature drop or rain, reduce the amount of food. Feed 2 hrs before the rain forecast. When temperature rises back up, increase food amount.

During hot summer days feeding in the morning is preferable due to cooler water temperature. In colder seasons, when water temperature starts to drop in the afternoon, feeding late may cause indigestion. Suggested feeding times during the sunny weather for ranchu that are kept outside:

• spring - from 7:30am till 3pm 
• summer - from 6am to 4pm; watch for the rain that will lower water temperature; to make ranchu grow faster, give food 2 hrs before it gets dark. 
• fall - from 7:30am till 3pm 
• winter - at low temperatures no food is usually given; if given, should be around noon 

Amount of a Single Feeding

Ranchu has no stomach. In order to provide proper digestion time, the single food portion must be eaten within 5 min. Try to avoid food leftovers, as it will effect the water quality.

Number of Feedings

It is best to feed after previously given food has been digested. In the warm temperature you can feed as soon as previous food has been digested, up to five feedings per day for young fish, when a single portion can be eaten in 5 min. Remember different foods have different digestion times.

Feeding On the Day of Water Change

There is an old saying: “Refrain from food on the day of new water”. With a large water change the fish is stressed and its physical condition is weakened. 

“Refrain” however, doesn’t mean to completely avoid food. Right after the water change the fish' somatic nerve system is stimulated by the fresh water, making them more active. At the same time gastrointestinal function is reduced. After 30 minutes of fish being in the new water, somatic nerve system usually calms down, normalizing functions of gastrointestinal tract and releasing stress. At this time you can give a single portion.

When Fish is Not Eating

Not eating can be influenced by several factors. It is important to quickly determine what causes it and take an action:

• fish condition - improve the way you feed, check for disease or start a treatment 
• food quality - change the food type, change the way the food is stored 
• water quality - watch for water quality deterioration, perform regular water changes 
• environment - make sure water temperature is between 64-86 F (18-30°C), improve aeration and shading, adjust stocking density of the fish 

Prevention of Fish Obesity

• moderate diet, restrain from giving too much food
• let wall algae to grow, use green water 
• balance wider variety of foods and use high quality pellets
• extend interval between water changes
• exercise fish, but care not to lose the tail tension and shape 
• observe water temperature and seasons and adjust the food regiment accordingly
• maintain appropriate stocking density to keep fish competitive 

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION

● WATER

● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE

● WATER TEMPERATURE

● AERATION

● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE

● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU

● FOOD

● FEEDING REGIMENT

● BREEDING & SPAWNING

● RAISING & GROOMING FRY

● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI

● CULLING

● SELECTION METHODS

● CULLING ROUND - I

● CULLING ROUND - II

● CULLING ROUND - III

● CULLING ROUND - IV

● CULLING ROUND - V

● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● FOOD

Ranchu are omnivores and prefer a wide variety of foods. To insure health and reduce obesity, their diet has to be balanced with proteins, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins.

Foods high in protein:

• live or frozen brine shrimp
• daphnia
• bloodworm
• pellets

Foods high in vitamins and minerals:

• algae
• duckweed
• chlorella and phytoplankton
• spirulina
• pumpkin
• spinach
• wolffia

Food Types And Digestion Times

Food with less moisture content takes longer to digest. A safe interval between feedings can be placed at 2 hours, however digestion time will change depending on the amount of food given. Approximate digestion times:

• daphnia, brine shrimp, wolffia, duckweed - 1 hr
• bloodworm - 1 ½ hr
• pellets - 2 hrs. 

Daphnia

One of the foods that is central to ranchu development. Easily digestible and highly absorbent, daphnia is high in nutrients and contributes to a maximum fry growth potentials.

Bloodworm

Another food that is very important to ranchu. It has superior digestion and absorption rate. High in protein, it promotes head-growth and overall development.

Brine Shrimp

With excellent absorption rate and nutritional value it is a good alternative to daphnia. Newly hatched brine shrimp is excellent for feeding fry.

Vegetables

Low in fat and protein, vegetables are rich in vitamins, minerals and organic pigments, and are very important supplement. They promote colors and overall health, especially at young stages. Most used vegetables are: phytoplankton, green algae, chlorerlla, spirulina, duckweed, pumpkin, wolffia and spinach among others.

Commercial Pellets

Due to low moisture content, digestion rate is the slowest, up to 2 hrs and more. Best if pellets are alternated with easily digestible foods, e.g. bloodworm. Due to high nutritional value and longer digestion times, feeding only with pellets may cause obesity and requires carful observation. There are many brands that offer ranchu pellets. However, not all of them are equal in quality and value. My own preference is Azayaka Brand ranchu pellets. Here is my article on different brands of pellets, their comparison and analyzes.

Pigments

Organic pigments or carotenoids like luteins (for yellows) and astaxanthin (for reds) are very important for developing fish coloration. Incorporating spinach, pumpkin, duckweed, wolffia and color enhancing pellets is beneficial.

Wolffia

Wolffia is the world’s smallest flowering plant that belongs to a group of duckweeds. It is easily digestible, contributes to color development (especially yellow) and overall health of a young fish. It also helps to maintain a slim belly. Wolffia can be easily substituted with duckweed.

Benefits of Wolffia or Duckweed:

• promotes head-growth development
• promotes slim belly and good physical shape
• easily digestible
• rich in vitamins and minerals
• high in protein
• positively effects color development
• shades the water and helps to lower water temperature
• removes access of oxygen and supplies carbon dioxide
• utilizes ammonia 

Cultivating Wolffia or Duckweed:

• requires a lot of sunlight
• tap water can be used
• provide light aeration
• will propagate very rapidly in 86 F (30°C)
• keep water temperature under 97 F (36°C)
• in winter, if temperatures are low, will go dormant and will sink to the bottom

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE

Sunlight

It is necessary to have at least 3 hours of sunlight a day. Sunlight is very important for a healthy ranchu and aids in brighter colors and it is instrumental for photosynthesizing phytoplankton and wall algae growth, sustaining healthy environment. As a positive side effect, sunlight's ultraviolet rays are anti-bactericidal. Watch for ranchu getting too stimulated by sunlight, as excessive swimming may weaken their tail tension, especially when young.

Shading

Strong direct sunlight can cause deterioration of ranchu physical condition and with water depth of only 6-10 in (15-25 cm) the pond can get easily overheated. It is important to shade the pond if water temperature rises near or above 86 F (30°C). However, avoid excessive shading, as it reduces the sense of seasons in ranchu.

Cheese cloth, synthetic shade cloth or bamboo/reed blinds can be used to shade the pond. It is suggested to position shading material 6.6 ft (2 m) above the water surface to provide sufficient ventilation and gas exchange.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● AERATION

Adequate aeration is important in supplying water with oxygen. It also aids in better water circulation and equalizes temperature between different layers in the pond.

However, vigorous aeration can have a negative impact on developing ranchu, especially their tale formation. It is very important to bring aeration to its minimum or avoid it all together during eggs hatching and fry development and, when the tail starts to form and open.

Advantages of aeration:

• supply of oxygen to the water 
• release of carbon dioxide from the water 
• mixes water for more uniform water temperature 
• delays deterioration of the water quality 

Drawbacks of aeration:

• too much aeration loosens the tail tension and effects its shape 

Oxygenation And Water Surface 

Pond surface is important for oxygenation. If covering or shading the pond, attention should be paid not to obstruct the airflow and gas exchange. It is necessary to provide good ventilation if the pond is inside or when air temperatures are high.

The Amount of Dissolved Oxygen And Water Temperature

There are two factors that effect how much oxygen is dissolved in the water: temperature and pressure.

With shallow pond used for ranchu, water pressure does not have much effect. The amount of dissolved oxygen will primarily depend on increase or decrease in temperature. As a rule, with temperature increase the amount of dissolved oxygen will proportionally decrease:

• 32 F (0°C) - 14.16 ml/L 
• 34 F (1°C) - 13.77 ml/L 
• 41 F (5°C) - 12.37 ml/L 
• 50 F (10°C) - 10.92 ml/L 
• 59 F (15°C) - 9.76 ml/L 
• 64 F (18°C) - 9.18 ml/L 
• 68 F (20°C) - 8.84 ml/L 
• 77 F (25°C) - 8.11 ml/L 
• 86 F (30°C) - 7.53 ml/L 

In the summer, due to higher temperatures water oxygen levels are at their lowest. Ranchu requires more oxygen in the summer, as it is most active. If there is a lack of oxygen in the water, ranchu will be swimming “nose up” at the surface gasping for air. Sufficient aeration is required, as well as the appropriate stocking density.

Oxygenation And Green Water

Phytoplankton in green water photosynthesizes and supplies oxygen to the water. When water gets over saturated with dissolved oxygen, it starts to escape in the form of gas. So called “gas bubble disease” may occur, when oxygen gas bubbles appear in the fish bloodstream and become visible on gills, fins and eyes. It can cause a secondary infection or even be fatal.

When using green water, additional aeration may not be necessary. Still, keep an eye on oxygen level becoming too low.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● WATER TEMPERATURE

Ranchu Body Temperature

Ranchu are ectothermic animals, which means their body temperature matches the temperature of the environment. They are also eurythermal, meaning that they are able to tolerate a wide range of temperatures. Depending on the environmental conditions, ranchu will adjust their metabolism.

Optimal temperature for ranchu active growth is between 64-86 F (18-30°C). As the water temperature rises above 86 F (30 C), ranchu activity becomes suppressed, negatively impacting their development. When the temperature drops below 64 F (18 C), ranch's metabolism begin to slow down. Below 43 F (6 C), ranchu enter a hibernation state. Cold temperatures, however, are part of ranchu's natural life cycle and are beneficial. As a temperate climate fish, ranchu enjoy all four seasons.

Temperature Fluctuations

Ranchu is adaptable to a wide temperature range, but only if the temperature changes gradually. It is best if the temperature increases no more then 1.8 F (1°C) degrees per day. A sudden increase of 9 F (5°C) degrees can be lethal, especially for fry and young fish. In an emergency, if the water temperature must be increased quickly, for disease treatment, it has to be done in increments of no more than 4-5 F (2-3°C) degrees per day until the desired temperature is reached. Decreasing the temperature is much better tolerated by the fish, but a gradual change is best.

It is important that the water temperature difference between early morning and noon fluctuates no more than 18 F (10 C) degrees. If it exceeds that - shading, ventilation or a bigger container is required.

Ranchu Activity & Water Temperature 

The range of water temperatures suitable for ranchu is between 30 and 100 F (-1 to +38°C). However, each temperature level dramatically effects the fish's physiology:

• 32-43 F (0-6°C) - full hibernation state, ranchu are inactive
• 44-54 F (7-12°C) - semi-hibernation, physiological functions are slow
• 55-64 F (13-18°C) - intermediate state between hibernation and active state; physiological functions are not up to their fullest 
• 65-75 F (19-24°C) - fish is ready to spawn, gonads develop; pathogens become more active 
• 76-86 F (25-30°C) - active fish growth 
• 87-97 F (31-36°C) - fish growth supressed 
• 98-100 F (37-38°C) - upper water temperature limit for ranchu 
• above 100 F (38°C) - temperature is NOT suitable for ranchu 

Use of Heater 

Although, a heater isn't necessary for day-to-day ranchu keeping, it might be useful in some situations. For the most part, breeders use it to adjust spawning time, to incubate ranchu eggs and to control the beginning stages of ranchu fry. A heater can also be used to aid in treating some diseases.

Advantages:

• setting water temperature as desired 
• controlling to big of a temperature fluctuation during the day 
• to interrupt hibernation 
• adjusting spawning season 
• adjusting hatching date and promote fry growth 
• increase disease treatment outcome 

Drawbacks:

• difficult to keep the same water temperature during water changes 
• lack of four season temperatures may lead to obesity 
• temperatures that are kept the same, lead to more rapid water quality deterioration 
• electrical bill

________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● NOTES ON GREEN WATER AND WATER CHANGE

There is an old Japanese saying “Ranchu is made with green water”. When viewed under the microscope, green water is composed of plankton - microscopic animals, green algae, cyanobacteria (blue-green “algae”) and diatoms (brown-golden algae), which freely float in the body of water that is exposed to sunlight. Plankton is rich in protein, minerals and vitamins.

Green water isn't always used for ranchu, in fact, most modern ranchu keepers will not encourage green water. However, if the ranchu pond is exposed to bright sunlight (especially outdoors) and warm temperatures, it most likely will develop green water. If you decide to explore the green water method, then this chapter is for you.

The effects of green water on ranchu:

• anorexigenic - fish has less appetite for additional food, due to constant feeding on plankton; reduce amount of given food 
• motor inhabitory suppression - fish growth less lengthwise and tend to become rounder and bulkier 
• green water holds temperature better with less fluctuation 
• improves physical condition of the fish 
• improves color of the fish

Color of Green Water

 
It takes experience to master green water. This method will require much more attention from the keeper to monitor the condition of water. There are two types of green water - green and brown in color, both have equal effect. Both types are often seen when the temperatures start to drop. The green or brown color of the water is determined by the balance of microorganisms.

Signs of Green Water Quality Deterioration

One of the signs of declining water quality is the formation of bubbles from aeration on the surface of the water. If the bubbles form a circle greater then 2 ft (60 cm) in diameter, it indicates that the water quality is deteriorating. When green water is used, one must observe how dark and opaque it gets. It must be kept similar to the transparency of Japanese green leaf tea (not matcha 抹茶 - ceremonial green tea). If green water suddenly changes in color or opacity, or CLEARS - 100% water change is necessary as soon as possible. Green water deterioration can occur rapidly and needs a quick response, or the fish will suffer. Overfeeding is often the cause of this. 

Signs of water deterioration:

• aeration bubbles are spread over 2 ft (60 cm) in diameter 
• green water darkens rapidly or clears 
• fish develops gas bubbles disease

Green Water Changes 

Best if water change is done in the morning on a sunny day. If tap water is used, it needs to be conditioned before use.

Temperature and water change proportions of green and fresh water:

• 32-54 F (0-12°C) - only replenish what was evaporated 
• 55-64 F (13-18°C) - when water deteriorates, use half old and half fresh water 
• 65-75 F (19-24°C) - when water deteriorates, use a little of old water and mostly fresh water 
• 76-97 F (25-36°C) - when water deteriorates, change 100% for fresh water 
• 98-100 F (37-38°C) - upper limit of the water temperature for ranchu, shade the pond 
• above 100 F (38°C) - temperature is NOT suitable for ranchu

Historically, there would be a white tile placed on the bottom of a ranchu pond. The ranchu master would then decide on the water change, based on how bright or muted the white tile would get.

Effect of Green Water Changes On Ranchu Appearance

100% water change increases ranchu activity and appetite. With frequent 100% water changes, fish will actively grow in length and the head-growth development will be slower. Also, the scale development may not keep up with the rate of growth, resulting in irregular scaling and color disadvantages. 

If the infrequency of 100% water changes is decreased, the fish will be less active and have less appetite, as the water "ages". Ranchu will grow less in length, encouraging development of the head-growth. It will also help to set finer scales.

Warning: Keeping ranchu in old water for too long may stunt the young ranchu and result in sickness.

When water changes increase:

• fish is active, increased appetite 
• fish grows in length 
• head-growth is poor 
• uneven scales development can occur 
• tail may fold 

When water changes decrease:

• fish activity is reduced and appetite decreased 
• growth in length is suppressed 
• head-growth develops 
• scales are finely set 
• due to less movement, tail will not fold 

This is also applies, when no green water method is used. Whether green water is used or not, balancing the time that ranchu spend in fresh and old water will affect the fish appearance. This alone, might be one of the most important conditions in raising traditional Japanese top view ranchu!

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● WATER

Tap Water

Tap or municipal water has pretty stable quality and good amount of oxygen. However, it needs to be treated for chlorine and/or chloramine. If left untreated, it is deadly for the fish. Please read here about the water conditioners. Depending on the region, tap water can be too soft and needs to be buffered and pH adjusted.

Well Water

In general, well water is not suitable for ranchu as it pumped out straight from the ground. It is often depleted of oxygen and can be too hard. A lab test can be performed to determine water composition. As a benefit, however, well water contains minerals and calcium that aids in skeletal development. It was observed that tail tension develops well in hard water, but it will slow down general growth of the fish, as compared with softer water. 

If using well water, for the best results, it can be mixed with tap water and aerated for at least overnight. In some set ups, water that is pumped out of the ground goes through the aerator tank. In this case it contains some oxygen and can be used for ranchu right away, considering that there are airstones in the ranchu pond. Read more here.

River or Lake Water

This water is not recommended for keeping ranchu. It may contain pathogens and parasites that can harm ranchu.

Green Algae Growth On The Surfaces Of The Pond

Green algae is a great food source for foraging ranchu. It is also where plankton lives. When green algae cover walls and bottom of the pond, they create a darker background to which fish reacts by developing a darker and richer color as a camouflage. It is believed that green algae growth is almost equally effective as use of green water. Benefits of green algae growth:

• a place where plankton develops 
• as a food rich in protein, vitamins and minerals 
• pro-kinetic effect increases gastrointestinal activity 
• positive for overall physical condition 
• effecting fish color and its darkness 
• promotes development of muscle tissue 

Cleaning the Pond

Algae growth on walls and bottom of the pond is beneficial to ranchu. Do not strip it all at once. Alternate cleaning of walls with cleaning of bottom to keep some of the algae growing at all times.

Clean the pond by brushing the walls and the bottom when algae growth gets too thick. Rinse the pond between cleanings. Read more here about the algae growth.


_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

WATER TEMPERATURE AND WATER CHANGE

Although, it is not cold in south-west Florida right now, the night temperatures are in the 60s F (15 C). During November, the water temperature in my ranchu pond fluctuated between 59-72 F (15-22 C). Pumped out of the ground well water is at 75-76 F (24 C) and comes much warmer than the water in the pond. The challenge becomes greater to perform water change, as the water in the pond is colder.

This temperature difference can have a negative effect on ranchu if exposed suddenly. Floating tubs with ranchu in the pond, brings the two temperatures closer together very quickly. As soon as the difference becomes less than 3 degrees F, the fish are good to go in the warmer water. Temperatures can be instantly checked with IR thermometer.

A TALE OF A TAIL

One of my female ranchu had recently damaged her tail. I have no idea how the side lobe of her tail got torn, and I have to admit it is quite upsetting to see a beautiful tail messed up.

Fortunately, goldfish have a great ability to regenerate damaged fins and tail quite fast, as well as their scales. While my ranchu "half tail" looked horrible, it is already healing, making a week old damage less noticeable each day. Although, it may not regenerate to its original beauty and the new tissue may not be as translucent, it will look normal and become functional again.

Healing tail side lobe of a nisai ranchu

The main key of the healing process is to have strong, well fed fish and VERY clean water. I don't use any medication or prophylactic treatment. Quality of the water is crucial and that is what I am focused on.

So, next time your goldfish turns up with damage fins or tail, give it a time and concentrate on maintaining exceptionally clean water. Your fish will be happy again in no time!

AZAYAKA PELLETS HAVE BEEN DELIVERED

I just received a familiar package marked "Japan Post" that I have gotten many times. Somehow, it is still as exciting as it was my first time to open it. And here I am sharing the excitement.

I decided to switch to Azayaka brand pellets a year ago and have observed nothing but improvements in my fish: no bloating, no manifestation of swim bladder disease, less poop, cleaner water, stronger color.

This package is for my adult fish and a couple of bags of color enchanting pellets to keep the ranchu more beautiful!

Green bag is Azayaka Basic, pellet size SS (2-3mm) and Purple bags of Azayaka Color Enhancing Astaxanthin, pellet size small grain (1.8-2.8mm)

HOW TO HANDLE RANCHU

Arguably, ranchu are the most handled fish I know. With frequent mandatory water changes, they have to be transferred by hand every several days. More so, young ranchu are picked up constantly, almost daily, to evaluate their development and for selection purposes. Often in the videos ranchu are presented in the hands of a keeper to show their outline, fins and overall quality. By the time ranchu matures, it has been held a great deal. My ranchu, for example, are so tame, they don't even try to swim away when I pick them up.

For all ranchu keepers and handlers, I would like to give a few recommendations to assure that your ranchu are minimally stressed when handled.

HANDS

Hands must be cleaned, but NOT with soap. I wash and rub my hands under warm water for a few minutes before handling the fish. It is good to use a brush to scrape hands under water. NO lotions or hand creams can be used. If I have handled someone else's fish, I sterilize my hands with alcohol and wash them under water before handling my own fish to prevent contamination.

Right before touching ranchu, I dip my hand in the tank with ranchu to chill it. It is especially nessesary when the water temperature is low. Under normal circumstances, my hand's temperature is 90-93F (32-34C) and the fish temperature is about 1 degree higher than that of the water. Holding your hand in the colder water will minimize distress. Imagine a masseur with cold hands giving you a back massage.

HANDLING

Ranchu must be held properly to avoid any damage to the fish body, fins and tail. Their tail must be positioned away from you and their belly must be supported by four fingers cradled together and contouring fish's belly. A thumb placed over the fish's back will secure and prevent it from slipping out. Hold it softly, creating a loose "hand harness" around the fish as in two images below. This handling technique is used when transferring ranchu from one container to another.

When inspecting or showing off your ranchu, softly but firmly hold ranchu between the thumb and four fingers as shown on the picture below, keeping the ranchu submerged.

RANCHU

It is unavoidable to take ranchu out of the water to transfer them during the water change. But, taking ranchu out of the water during check ups or demonstration is unnecessary. After ranchu is in your hand, hold it right under the surface of water, so the fish is submerged (picture above). If topical medication must be applied to the fish's body, I try to keep at least the fish's head in the water. Although ranchu isn't a deep water fish (in which case surfacing would be devastating) the pressure change between being under water and in the open air is stressful and could affect the swim bladder, especially if it is already compromised. At all times avoid or minimize the time when ranchu are kept out of the water.

Happy handling!

FEEDINGS, FEEDERS AND SCHEDULES

Feeding schedule and portion size are important parts of ranchu grooming. Both depend on the season of the year and the age of ranchu along with the goals of the keeper.

Ranchu are coldblooded animals and their metabolism is directly correlated with the water temperature. It is important to observe seasonal temperature fluctuations and adjust ranchu feeding accordingly. Below is a table showing different temperatures and their effect on ranchu:

32-43 F (0-6°C) - hibernation state

44-54 F (7-12°C) - semi-hibernation state

55-64 F (13-18°C) - intermediate state between hibernation and active states

65-75 F (19-24°C) - ranchu are ready to spawn

76-86 F (25-30°C) - ranchu grow actively 

87-97 F (31-36°C) - ranchu growth slows down

98-100 F (37-38°C) - upper temperature limit for ranchu

It is beneficial for ranchu to hibernate. However, in my case, bound by the indoor set up, the water temperature doesn't drop below 55-64 F (13-18°C) keeping my ranchu in the intermediate state, between hibernation and active states. Their digestive tract works noticeably much slower as their activities calm down. At this time, I feed them only once or twice a day, depending on the temperature. In the spring the temperature rises and when "the stars align" the ranchu will spawn. I increase the amount of feed from two to three times per day. In the summer months keeping ranchu indoors has its advantage. With my temperature controlled environment, I don't have to worry about high temperatures above 86 F (30°C). The feeding is three to four times a day.

I feed as much as my ranchu can collectively eat in five minutes. Although, regardless of the method by which the amount of food is determined, observing ranchu and adjusting the food amount according to their appearance is a must. Overfeeding is not good for ranchu, as for anybody else, it shortens their life span and may prevent them from breeding.

I use the above schedule for my nisai and will continue using it when they turn oya age. On the other hand, it is very different with the fry, BBR, CBR and tosai. In upcoming months, I will share my feeding schedule for the young fish, but for now I will say that correct feeding regime is crucial in the first year of ranchu development.

For its very convenient and consistent way, I have been using automatic feeders to feed my ranchu with high quality dry pellets. It is especially helpful when I have to feed three or four times a day and my timetable doesn't allow me to be around. Ranchu appreciate the schedule and quickly learn at what time the food is given and gather around the feeding area. Afterwards, they can "plan" their time, whether to forage for algae, promenade back and forth in the tank or nap. I find that automatic feeders are actually helpful in preventing overfeeding. The many temptations I have had to give an extra pinch or two of pellets to my ever hungry ranchu are now prevented by the feeder.

Among the several automatic feeders available, I have chosen Eheim Everyday Fish Feeder. It is reasonably priced for what it can do, programable for up to four meals a day, has sizable food reservoir and long battery life. One unfavorable feature of this feeder is that it doesn't dispense exact amounts of pellets each time. As the pellet reservoir empties, the portions may become irregular. This is, however, not a big concern of mine. I learned to keep the reservoir full and don't let it get completely empty. It works best with pellets larger than 1.5 mm in size.

For smaller pellet size and granules to feed the fry, I found that Fish Mate F14 Aquarium Fish Feeder is the best. It has 14 compartments and can dispense food for up to four times a day. I use this feeder to supplementally feed the fry with granules size of 360-650 microns. I especially like that it slowly dispenses food for over a period of time, giving every fish a chance to eat. An air tube can be attached to the feeder to keep the food from clumping. One thing about this feeder is that you have to refill it quite often, but its overall convenience beats that.

Eheim Everyday Fish Feeder

Fish Mate F14 Aquarium Fish Feeder

I DISCOVERED A CLAY

Reading through Goldfish Keepers Forum, I stumbled upon David Lains' post, where he referred to an article "Using Clay to Protect Catfish" published in Aquaculture North America. Being quite fascinated with this information, I searched the internet for more, and quickly became convinced of clay's undeniable benefits. Previously, I didn't know that clay had been in use for koi keeping for a very long time and is a standard practice for many koi breeders.

Of course not every clay is made equal. Out of several main clay groups, smectite group is of interest to us. It includes montmorillonite clay, also known as bentonite clay. Essentially, montmorillonite and bentonite clays are the same, with the first named in 1847 after a small town Montmorillon in western France, and the second after Benton Shale in Wyoming, USA in 1898. As montmorillonite clay was described and named first, it claims to be the valid name. This clay besides Montmorillon and Wyoming is mined in many other parts of the world and, depending on the deposit and location, have various mineral compositions. For the fish pond, however, only calcium montmorillonite clay is used.

Erosion formation in the soft bentonite clay, Cathedral Gorge State Park. Nevada, USA (open source image)

What are the benefits of using it in our fish tanks and ponds? The first main benefit of this clay is in its high mineral content that provides well over 50 macro, micro and trace elements "remineralizing" the aquatic system. All living organisms, including goldfish, require a constant supply of these elements for various biological processes to function normally. It also improves fish digestion. Second, is its detoxifying effect. The clay's particles are so small that the action of water molecules is enough to keep them in suspension or colloidal state. The surface area of particles in one gram of clay can reach almost 10,764 sq.ft (1000 sq.m). Negatively charged clay particles have the ability to "trap" or flocculate heavy metals, pesticides, free radicals and even virus cells, etc., making them easily removable with mechanical filters and water changes. Third, it accelerates bio filter work by positively affecting nitrifying bacteria, at the same time, based on the article mentioned above, it can protect the fish from certain pathogenic bacteria causing skin and gill tissue damage.

Properties of clay go well beyond described above. In fact, "montmorillonite is also known to cause micelles (lipid spheres) to assemble together into vesicles. These are structures that resemble cell membranes on many cells. It can also help nucleotides to assemble into RNA, which will end up inside the vesicles. It has been demonstrated that this could have generated highly complex RNA polymers that could reproduce the RNA trapped within the vesicles. This process may have led to the origin of life on Earth" (courtesy of Wikipedia). Interestingly, according to Old Testament, the first man was made of clay (earth, dust).

Now back to goldfish. There are several brands of calcium montmorillonite clay on the market for use in ponds - Ultimate Koi Clay (USA), Microbe-Lift CMC (USA), Terra Pond (USA), Thrive (USA), Kusuri Klay (UK) and Refresh (Japan) among a few others. Also, there is a human grade, edible calcium montmorillonite clay that is suitable for using in the fish tank, one of the known brands is Terramin. And yes, this clay is edible and is consumed as a food supplement by various animals, wild and domestic, including humans.

calcium montmorillonite clay

I started using calcium montmorillonite clay in my ranchu pond a month ago. Although, there are no obvious effects on my ranchu that I notice at the moment, I know that I am supplying important minerals and trace elements back into the system. In my case, municipal water is used, which based on published analysis contains only some of the necessary minerals. This, however, would'nt compare with the rich mineral content of calcium montmorillonite clay. Besides, the minerals must be in constant supply, as they are being used up by the living organisms.

I use half a teaspoon for my 100 gal pond once a week, by first "dissolving" clay in a bottle of pond water and then pouring it back into the pond. The water gets cloudy only for a few hours before it clears up, depending on the amount added. As I mentioned earlier, mineral composition of this clay greatly depends on the source. This is also true for pH and hardness that the clay will add to the pond water. Based on the tests provided in "Consumer Report: Koi Clay Mysteries Revealed" (see below) the pH of different clays ranges mostly from 7.65 to 8.7 and hardness from 31 to 74 ppm. In my case, added clay did not change the pH and it remained at 8.2. It is important, as in everything, not to overuse the clay and follow the recommended instructions. I would also recommend testing the water regularly, until it is clear how the clay effects the water environment. And as always, regular water changes are mandatory.

FURTHER READING: Consumer Report: Koi Clay Mysteries Revealed by Michael D.Cox, Koi Clay Article by Wayne Smith, Montmorillonite by Chris Neaves, Understanding Clay by Manky Sanke