A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● RAISING AND GROOMING FRY

Keep A Diary

Write down everything that has to do with breeding and progress of your ranchu. Documenting when and what is a good practice and creates an important database for your future reference.

Water Temperature During Hatching

68 F (20°C) is optimal water temperature for developing fertilized eggs. If the temperature is lover, fry will not hatch all at the same time and there will be a high percentage of malformed fish. Temperatures above 68 F (20°C) will induce egg development, resulting in higher percentage of tail regression to original "wild" carp. Controlling water temperature by shading and/or using a heater is necessary.

Water temperature and timing from spawning till hatching:

• 57 F (14°C) - hatching on the 7th day 
• 61 F (16°C) - hatching on the 6th day 
• 64 F (18°C) - hatching in 5 ½ days 
• 68 F (20°C) - hatching on the 5th day 
• 71 F (22°C) - hatching in 4 ½ days 
• 75 F (24°C) - hatching on the 4th day 

Watch the water quality, as it can deteriorate quickly after spawning, due to unfertilized eggs and milt remains. It is best to transfer the eggs or change water right after spawning and keep the temperature constant at 68 F (20°C). In some cases, adding drops of methylene blue helps to prevent fungal growth on ranchu eggs.

Feeding The Fry

The fry are born with a yolk sac that provides them with nutrients for a couple of days. Start feeding the fry on the 2nd day after hatching.

It is very important to provide enough food for the fry to keep up with their high growth rate. When feeding live food, the portion size is not important. The fry must eat as much as they need and any time they want. Digestion time is short. There should be a constant supply of live food, as it gets eaten from morning till evening. One of the most accessible live foods for fry is freshly hatched brine shrimp. Read more on brine shrimp here.

When feeding frozen food or micro pallets, the portion size need to be observed, as overfeeding can spoil the water fast. A single dose should be of what fry can eat in 5 min. Digestion time is longer. Intervals between feedings must reflect digestion times, but feeding must be preformed often.

Water Changes & Fry

It is very important to keep constant temperature during the water changes. Even small temperate fluctuations may weaken or kill very sensitive at this stage fry. Also, watch the aeration. Strong aeration can damage the fry, adequately adjust air pump pressure to minimize any water turbulence. 

Its best not to transfer very young fry during the water change, but scoop as much water as you can and replace it with fresh. When fry has grown a little it will handle the transfer better, still be very carful scooping it during the water change, to prevent any injury. At this time it is best to have two containers and alternate them during the water change.

Filamentous Green Algae & Fry

Due to higher stocking density and/or food left in the water, filamentous green algae or Spirogyra can grow very rapidly. This algae produces long hair-like strings and if eaten by fry will get stuck in their small bodies, coming out through the gills or vent. It can not be removed and will eventually kill the fry.

Adjusting stocking density, regular water changes and cleaning the container will keep it under control.

Growth Rate

Learn to determine proper stocking density. This will insure that the fry doesn’t die and will promote faster development. Balancing the amount of food and stocking density is important for a healthy development of the fry and to prevent a number of diseases.

It is important to make fry growing as fast as possible. For example, for the fish hatched in April, a goal would be to have the fish reaching 4 in (10 cm) in length by the fall. 

Growth rate of the fry indicating its healthy development:

• 1st week - 3/8 in (10mm) 
• 2nd week - 1/2 in (13 mm) 
• 3rd week - 5/8 in (16 mm) 
• 1st month - 6/8 in (20 mm) 
• 7/8 in (22 mm) increase in the 2nd month - 1 5/8 in (42 mm) 
• 1/2 in (13 mm) increase in the 3rd month - 2 1/8 in (55 mm) 
• 5/8 in (15 mm) increase in the 4th month - 2 6/8 in (70 mm) 
• 5/8 in (15 mm) increase in the 5th month - 3 3/8 in (85 mm) 
• 1/2 in (12 mm) increase in the 6th month - 3 2/8 in (97 mm) 
• 5/16 in (8 mm) increase in the 7th month - 4 1/8 in (105 mm) 

If you have achieved the above growth rates, look for more ways to improve. If you are behind these growth rates, increase one or all of the following:

• food amount 
• water changes 
• adjust stocking density

Effect of Stocking Density On Tosai Ranchu

Always pay attention to stocking density for the fry in its first year. High density will cause illness in fish and delays in development. During this period you want for the fish to grow lengthwise and loosen stiffness in their tails. Do regular water changes before water spoils. Regularly remove waist and uneaten food.

High Density:
movement is restricted, high probability of gill disease, growth is slow, rapid water quality deterioration, tail shoulders and core remain hard and make it difficult to swim

Somewhat Low Density:
water quality is maintained, chances of illness are low, growth is higher in width and normal in length, competitive spirit and appetite is good, only tail core softens.

Low Density:
water may deteriorate causing illness even though it looks clean, growth in length is much suppressed, vertical growth is slower. Due to lack of competition between the ranchu, their appetite is lower, they swim less and because of that both tail shoulders and core remains stiff

Appropriate Density:

water quality is maintained, growth is accelerated in both length and width, better appetite and good competitive spirit, swims more. Both tail shoulders and core softening which helps to swim better. Adjust stocking density by culling. It is important to identify quality ranchu as early as possible to maintain appropriate stocking density. 

Appropriate ranchu count per 3.3 ft² (1 m²) container that is 4 in (10 cm) gradually increasing to 10 in (25 cm) deep:

• up to 0.6 in (1.5 cm) long fish - up to 100
• 0.8 in (2 cm) long fish - up to 60
• 1 1/8 in (3 cm) long fish - up to 50
• 1 5/8 in (4 cm) long fish - up to 40
• 2 3/8 in (6 cm) long fish - up to 20
• 4 in (10 cm) long fish - up to 5 

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Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● FEEDING REGIMENT

Amount of Food & Water temperature

Ranchu's physiological functions are greatly affected by the ambient water temperature. It is very important to adjust food type and amount in accordance with the water temperature. If not fed correctly, ranchu might develop indigestion problems and their immune system may get weaken, making them prone to decease.

• 32-43 F (0-6°C) - fish hibernate, no food is required
• 44-54 F (7-12°C) - physiological functions are slow; give only small amount of easily digestible food
• 55-64 F (13-18°C) - physiological functions are not to their fullest; increase the food amount carefully; use easily digestible food
• 65-75 F (19-24°C) - fish is active, food amount must be increased 
• 76-86 F (25-30°C)- very active growth; provide enough food, but watch for signs of obesity 
• 87-97 F (31-36°C) - fish appetite is lower; provide appropriate amount of food
• 98-100 F (37-38°C) - upper limit of water temperature for ranchu
• above 100 F (38°C) - temperature is harmful for ranchu

Feeding Depends On the Weather & Seasons

Adjust amount of food according to the weather and season, especially for the fish kept outside. If the water temperature changes due to the air temperature drop or rain, reduce the amount of food. Feed 2 hrs before the rain forecast. When temperature rises back up, increase food amount.

During hot summer days feeding in the morning is preferable due to cooler water temperature. In colder seasons, when water temperature starts to drop in the afternoon, feeding late may cause indigestion. Suggested feeding times during the sunny weather for ranchu that are kept outside:

• spring - from 7:30am till 3pm 
• summer - from 6am to 4pm; watch for the rain that will lower water temperature; to make ranchu grow faster, give food 2 hrs before it gets dark. 
• fall - from 7:30am till 3pm 
• winter - at low temperatures no food is usually given; if given, should be around noon 

Amount of a Single Feeding

Ranchu has no stomach. In order to provide proper digestion time, the single food portion must be eaten within 5 min. Try to avoid food leftovers, as it will effect the water quality.

Number of Feedings

It is best to feed after previously given food has been digested. In the warm temperature you can feed as soon as previous food has been digested, up to five feedings per day for young fish, when a single portion can be eaten in 5 min. Remember different foods have different digestion times.

Feeding On the Day of Water Change

There is an old saying: “Refrain from food on the day of new water”. With a large water change the fish is stressed and its physical condition is weakened. 

“Refrain” however, doesn’t mean to completely avoid food. Right after the water change the fish' somatic nerve system is stimulated by the fresh water, making them more active. At the same time gastrointestinal function is reduced. After 30 minutes of fish being in the new water, somatic nerve system usually calms down, normalizing functions of gastrointestinal tract and releasing stress. At this time you can give a single portion.

When Fish is Not Eating

Not eating can be influenced by several factors. It is important to quickly determine what causes it and take an action:

• fish condition - improve the way you feed, check for disease or start a treatment 
• food quality - change the food type, change the way the food is stored 
• water quality - watch for water quality deterioration, perform regular water changes 
• environment - make sure water temperature is between 64-86 F (18-30°C), improve aeration and shading, adjust stocking density of the fish 

Prevention of Fish Obesity

• moderate diet, restrain from giving too much food
• let wall algae to grow, use green water 
• balance wider variety of foods and use high quality pellets
• extend interval between water changes
• exercise fish, but care not to lose the tail tension and shape 
• observe water temperature and seasons and adjust the food regiment accordingly
• maintain appropriate stocking density to keep fish competitive 

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Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION

● WATER

● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE

● WATER TEMPERATURE

● AERATION

● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE

● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU

● FOOD

● FEEDING REGIMENT

● BREEDING & SPAWNING

● RAISING & GROOMING FRY

● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI

● CULLING

● SELECTION METHODS

● CULLING ROUND - I

● CULLING ROUND - II

● CULLING ROUND - III

● CULLING ROUND - IV

● CULLING ROUND - V

● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● FOOD

Ranchu are omnivores and prefer a wide variety of foods. To insure health and reduce obesity, their diet has to be balanced with proteins, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins.

Foods high in protein:

• live or frozen brine shrimp
• daphnia
• bloodworm
• pellets

Foods high in vitamins and minerals:

• algae
• duckweed
• chlorella and phytoplankton
• spirulina
• pumpkin
• spinach
• wolffia

Food Types And Digestion Times

Food with less moisture content takes longer to digest. A safe interval between feedings can be placed at 2 hours, however digestion time will change depending on the amount of food given. Approximate digestion times:

• daphnia, brine shrimp, wolffia, duckweed - 1 hr
• bloodworm - 1 ½ hr
• pellets - 2 hrs. 

Daphnia

One of the foods that is central to ranchu development. Easily digestible and highly absorbent, daphnia is high in nutrients and contributes to a maximum fry growth potentials.

Bloodworm

Another food that is very important to ranchu. It has superior digestion and absorption rate. High in protein, it promotes head-growth and overall development.

Brine Shrimp

With excellent absorption rate and nutritional value it is a good alternative to daphnia. Newly hatched brine shrimp is excellent for feeding fry.

Vegetables

Low in fat and protein, vegetables are rich in vitamins, minerals and organic pigments, and are very important supplement. They promote colors and overall health, especially at young stages. Most used vegetables are: phytoplankton, green algae, chlorerlla, spirulina, duckweed, pumpkin, wolffia and spinach among others.

Commercial Pellets

Due to low moisture content, digestion rate is the slowest, up to 2 hrs and more. Best if pellets are alternated with easily digestible foods, e.g. bloodworm. Due to high nutritional value and longer digestion times, feeding only with pellets may cause obesity and requires carful observation. There are many brands that offer ranchu pellets. However, not all of them are equal in quality and value. My own preference is Azayaka Brand ranchu pellets. Here is my article on different brands of pellets, their comparison and analyzes.

Pigments

Organic pigments or carotenoids like luteins (for yellows) and astaxanthin (for reds) are very important for developing fish coloration. Incorporating spinach, pumpkin, duckweed, wolffia and color enhancing pellets is beneficial.

Wolffia

Wolffia is the world’s smallest flowering plant that belongs to a group of duckweeds. It is easily digestible, contributes to color development (especially yellow) and overall health of a young fish. It also helps to maintain a slim belly. Wolffia can be easily substituted with duckweed.

Benefits of Wolffia or Duckweed:

• promotes head-growth development
• promotes slim belly and good physical shape
• easily digestible
• rich in vitamins and minerals
• high in protein
• positively effects color development
• shades the water and helps to lower water temperature
• removes access of oxygen and supplies carbon dioxide
• utilizes ammonia 

Cultivating Wolffia or Duckweed:

• requires a lot of sunlight
• tap water can be used
• provide light aeration
• will propagate very rapidly in 86 F (30°C)
• keep water temperature under 97 F (36°C)
• in winter, if temperatures are low, will go dormant and will sink to the bottom

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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THOMPSON'S RANCHU

For some time, I have wanted to do an interview with my good friend Jeff Thompson (Ranchu Notes). Finally, we got around to it and despite our busy schedules made it happened.

Jeff Thompson of Oregon

Jeff is a professional TVR (top view ranchu) breeder from Oregon. What strikes me most about him, is his total devotion to this amazing breed of goldfish. For over a decade Jeff has groomed and bred TVR, employing traditional Japanese method, to become one among the most respected ranchu experts in the USA.

Successful ranchu breeding and keeping isn't something that you can achieve all at once. The more you devote yourself to this craft, the more you will find yourself presented with the shear complexity of ranchu! A perfect ranchu, in my opinion, is a mythical fish. There is always more to improve in the fish quality! Thus the entire pleasure of ranchu keeping is in chasing a dream, a journey. Jeff is quite successful in his journey. He has become more determined in his culling and his results are more consistent. Pictures below are a testament to that.

Breeder ranchu, 2015

Thompson's tosai, 2016

Thompson's tosai, 2016

Sorting tosai, 2015

Here are Q&A with Jeff Thompson:

Q: How often do you change water?

A: There is no hard and fast rule for exactly when to perform a 100% water change. Based on the season, stocking density and feeding levels and the age of the ranchu we must learn to 'read' the water quality by looking at, smelling and touching the water. If the ranchu have been in the pond for 2 days and the water begins to look too thick I will go ahead and perform the change. Typically the range is 4 to 7 days between water changes. During the late fall and winter it may be several weeks between changes as the ranchu hibernate.


Q: How does your "new" water get prepared

A: My process is simplicity itself due to the high quality of water I get here in the High Desert of Oregon: After moving the ranchu to their fresh pond I drain the old water and scrub the pond walls and floor, being sure to leave a bit of wall algae behind to seed the new wall algae. I refill the pond and allow the water to 'rest' for several days. It is now ready for the ranchu. Other keepers may need to modify this regiment by adding water conditioner to the fresh water.


Q: Do you use "green water" and if you do for what reason?

A: I never seek to cultivate green water but it sometimes develops on its own. When I transfer the ranchu into their fresh pond I will just drain away the green water.


Q: What is the feeding regiment for BBR and CBR?

A: BBR are fed buckets and buckets of freshly hatched brineshrimp. It is a full time job feeding BBR as they need to eat every 4 hours. Once they have grown a bit I will add a fry food such as Golden Pearls into their diet of brineshrimp, but it is still mostly brineshrimp. Once they are around a half-inch long I will add frozen bloodworms to the mix. CBR are fed a high quality pellet and lots of high quality frozen bloodworms.


Q: What brand(s) of pellets do you use?

A: All my best quality ranchu receive the Azayaka pellet. I also like the Japan Ranchu Lord pellet. For my retired breeders and other various ranchu I will feed them the Omega 1 Goldfish pellet.


Q: Is there any other supplemental food given to your ranchu?

A: The single most important food for my ranchu is the algae that grows on the walls and floor of the ponds. They will graze on this food all day long. Algae helps keep the dense pellet foods moving thru the gut and it also provides beautiful colors in the ranchu.


Q: Is feeding regiment different for your nisai and oya fish?

A: Yes, different ages of ranchu will require feeding regiments. We must always observe and react to what the ranchu are telling us and vary our husbandry accordingly.


Q: Do you use any prophylactic drugs or treatments for your ranchu?

A: Yes, twice per year I will treat all my ranchu with prazi. Flukes are present in both healthy and sick populations of goldfish and prazi is a very safe way to address the flukes.


Q: How many spawns do you collect per year?

A: I have learned that with my current set-up I am limited to four spawns per year. Any more than this and the fry suffer. I would rather have four great quality spawns that a bunch of bad quality spawns.


Q: How often do you cull?

A: I cull as often as I can. The first cull will typically be around 2 weeks. After that I will cull whenever I perform a water change. Culling as soon as possible, as often as possible, and culling vigorously gives a huge huge HUGE! boost to the remaining fry. It is so important to do everything within our power to boost the growth rate of the good fry. It is like a race: The moment the fry begin to eat it is a race to get the fry grown up as big and strong as we possibly can. This is how you get strong beautiful bodies and a good foundation for head growth.


Q: What is an outcome from one of your average spawns? How many final keepers do you end up with on average?

A: It varies a lot. The quality of the eggs and the quality of the milt.... the skill of my pairings..... the quality of my husbandry of the fry..... there are so many factors that affect the outcome of a spawn. I feel lucky if I get 50 good quality BBR from a spawn. I try to keep 8 to 12 top-quality ranchu from a spawn to potentially use as breeders in following years.


Q: Do you hand spawn?

A: Yes, only hand spawning. Hand spawning can only occur after the female has already begun to release the eggs on her own.


Q: How often do you introduce seed ranchu from other breeders to continue working on your line?

A: I try to create parallel lines with cousins to use for my own outcrosses. I may import some new ranchu from Japan in 2017 or 2018 to increase my gene pool.


Q: How close are you to establishing your own line?

A: This is tricky because as soon as a ranchu keeper has bred the ranchu the offspring can no longer be called by the original bloodline. This is because only when raised by the hand of the Master may the ranchu be called by the Master's name. For example, I have used ranchu directly from the hand of Mr. Kashino for some of my 2016 spawns. Can I call these BBR that I created 'Kashino ranchu'? No, I can not call them Kashino ranchu because the eggs and fry were raised under my hand.


Q: What are the main characteristics of your line of ranchu that sets them apart?

A: Above all I seek a powerful and graceful movement as my ranchu swim. I hope they exhibit this feature.


Q: What are the main qualities that you try to preserve or develop in your future ranchu?

A: After a powerful and graceful movement I look for a thick peduncle, thick backbone, beautiful and wide tail spread, thick and strong body and of course a dynamic head. Also I need ranchu that can survive a rather long and cold hibernation period during the winter.


Q: What suggestion(s) will you give to a beginner ranchu keeper?

A: Ranchu are a Japanese fish and must be kept according to traditional Japanese methods to express their full potential. Japanese ranchu are kept in large shallow ponds with NO filtration, only an airstone and 100% water changes (performed by moving the ranchu into a fresh pond). With ranchu the water quality is one of our grooming tools: In fresh water the ranchu grows it's body and as the water becomes older the ranchu then puts on headgrowth. This is the fundamental process of ranchu that is being ruined by Americans using sponge filters, uv filters and other bits of technology. Remember that the Japanese have invented and shared with the rest of the world all of the most cutting edge technologies from medical, electronics, robotics, automotive, etc...... if there was a better way for raising ranchu would not the Japanese have developed it? The fastest path to success with ranchu is to follow the path laid before us by the true ranchu masters. Use the internet to research how the Japanese ranchu masters keep their ranchu and then emulate that.


Q: Do you have the ability to sell/ship your ranchu outside of USA?

A: No I only ship domestically right now.

**All photos used in this article are by Jeff Thompson

QUIET BEFORE THE STORM

Hopefully we had the last snow storm and the spring will now prevail. This year's winter in DC was cold and the water temperature in my indoor pond lingered between 58-62 F (14-17C). The ranchu were slower and were fed only once a day with Azayaka Balance Pellets, free ranging the rest of the time on algae.

It's warming up now and I have increased the feedings to two times a day, with Azayaka Growth Pellets and frozen bloodworms. Occasional Wollfia is added as a supplement. Again there are plenty of algae to eat for the ranchu between the meals, which they graze off of the walls and bottom of the tank. It is noticeable how much more active the ranchu became, especially on sunny days, when the sunlight hits the tank.

There is no display of spawning beheiviour yet. But with a steady warming and longer sunny days it is a matter of time. First spring thunder storm and a water change will assure spawning motion at once.

Looking back after a long break, it seems that I have forgotten how much work it was to raise the fry, BBR and CBR. Despite that, I feel excited about going through this again, but this time with more knowledge and more purpose.

I had enough time to think about my breeding goals and the seed ranchu, creating a plan of action. My choice of ranchu have widened and I have determined a combination I would like to try in producing even better quality ranchu this year. The time will tell soon enough. Patiently awaiting the storm ...

High Ranchu video in slow motion