A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● FORESEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN TIME

Choosing and grooming ranchu with balance between head, body and tail is very important and will produce a great fish. Please refer to diagrams in the right column on this page for ranchu body parts explanation.

The Head

Ranchu body has a tendency to develop in width with age. If the head is short it will become disproportionate to the body in tosai age. It is necessary to select the fish with longer head to achieve better balance in the future.

Head-Growth

It is good if tosai ranchu has only Dragon Head and not too much growth on gill plates. By the time they become nisai age (two-year-old) they develop more growth on gill plates, forming a Lion Head and creating a more balance wen. However, if the Dragon Head remains with no growth on gill plates by nisai age, it will not balance well with the rest of the body.

If strong head-growth develops at an early stage, it will become overdeveloped by oya age (two years) and the fish will loose its balance. Generally, the ranchu with modestly developed head-growth will have more balanced look by the second year.

Back Line Profile

Choose ranchu with flatter, longer back similar to Japanese long boxwood comb (pic on the left), instead of rounder, like in Japanese short boxwood comb (pic on the right). The back has a tendency to grow muscles and becomes smooth and more round. It is not a problem if the back is dented but long, it will get fuller with time.

 

The fish with the round back like in short Japanese comb will become even rounder with age.

Tail Peduncle

If the tail peduncle is too thick in tosai age, it may not balance well with the tail shoulders (ogata). In the future this fish may not swim well and may lose its overall balance. On the other hand, if the tail peduncle is thinner in tosai age, it has a chance to becoming thicker and more balanced with the tail in the future.

Stomach

Again, it is important to keep the overall balance between the head, body and the tail. Belly is supported by the ribs that develop earlier. As belly fat accumulates it may throw the balance off. Overfeeding may cause to unbalanced ranchu.

If there is no round belly during the first year, expect it to appear on the second year.

Tail Plate - Osara

Osara that is surrounded by the outer circle of scales is ideal. If the tail plate didn't developed enough, the tail tension will eventually be loosen up. There is an observation that the white ranchu often doesn’t develop good osara.

In young fish osara is not very noticeable yet, but the preference should be given as much as possible to the fish with most scales on the tail plate. The tail plate should have right and left shoulders, and if developed well is an indication of a strong back.

Tail Core - Ogata (okata)

It is better to have tail core or midrib stiffer during tosai age, as it has a tendency to soften with age. It is also impossible to achieve strong and supportive midrib if the tail core was originally soft.

Even with the perfect tail core by nisai age, you will have to keep the right grooming technique to maintain it that way.

Anal Fins

Defected anal fins will affect swimming and overall development of the tail peduncle. However, even if defected, they will cause less problem if they are symmetrical.

In case that only one anal fin has developed either on the left or right, it will cause the tail peduncle to twist and will cause poor swimming in the future.

In either case of two anal fins or one, it has to be positioned symmetrically and along the center body line for a good swimming performance.

Scales

In the first year, it is possible to see several scales on the back shimmer as the fish swims. It will gradually disappear as the back becomes thicker and the scales get repositioned.

Scale color change from white to red or orange is irreversible. White fish has potential of changing color.

Swimming

With a lot of swimming the fish will develop in width and will have a tendency to swim heavy and wag its head left and right as it swims. If concerned about swimming, pay attention to the fish growing too wide. It is possible to bring it back and achieve lighter swimming pattern with the right grooming and fish density in the pond.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● CULLING ROUND - V

Fifth Culling Round - Past Four Month After Hatching

The ranchu size should be reaching 3 3/8 in (85 mm). During this final round the attention is focused on the future purpose of the fish, whether it will be a breeder, competing fish or purely for esthetic pleasure. This selection is also influenced by the owner's individual preferences. Anything that was overlooked previously will have to be considered now.

You will notice that each fish has its own personality even though all fish has properly developed in shape and health. Usually, during this round the fish is selected to someone’s personal taste.

Fish that is going to be selected for breeding must be healthy and strong. Fish for competition must have some outstanding qualities and balance between width, length, shape of its head, back and tail and the way it swims. Selecting a competition fish requires most experience and knowledge.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● CULLING ROUND - IV

Fourth Culling Round - Three And A Half Month After Hatching

The ranchu size should be reaching 2 6/8 in (70 mm). During this round look for overall quality of the ranchu. All faults previously not noticed will be obvious now. Tail tension that looked good before could have weakened. Tail peduncle plate (osara) must be strong and fully developed at this time to support the tail tension.

Physical strength in some fish might have faded and will be recognized during this round.

Previous selections where made to recognize faults and deformities that could be harmful or fatal to the fish in one way or the other. This round is to recognize fish potentials for the future. Big attention is given to the tail tension, right and left symmetry of the body, swimming ability and overall development. Preparing the fish for its 5th last and most demanding round. The number is reduced from 2/3 to up to a half.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● CULLING ROUND - III

Third Culling Round - Thee Month After Hatching

The ranchu size should be at around 2 1/8 in (55 mm). This culling is done by looking at the side of the fish. On the third month the back and the tail peduncle has taken a shape and can be clearly evaluated.

The focus of this round of culling is on the position of the tail towards the tail peduncle, and the shape of the back. This will influence the way the ranchu swims.

The fish should be selected for their smooth curved backs similar to a long Japanese boxwood comb. 

The tail core (midrib) should stand up and form an angle of 90° to 120° in relation to the tail peduncle. While looking for a smooth curved back, do not overlook the fish charm. If the center of the back is raised, it will flatten with time, as the back thickens in older ranchu.

Standard to follow:

Negative Points To Look For From the Side:

1. tail core is dropped below 120°
2. tail core is less than 90°
3. pinched tail core or has a bump (a), tail side lobes are positioned too forward (b)
4. Tail peduncle is too flat (a) and has a bump (b)
5. tail peduncle is crunched, no smooth curve

 

During the Their Round 

This time attention is on the side view of the tail core (midrib) and the back profile. The number is reduced to about half or 2/3rds. Again, while looking for a smooth back, do not overlook the fish charm. Flatter or rounder backs can be overlooked if a tail core looks right and the fish looks and swims good from above.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● CULLING ROUND - II

Second Culling Round - One Month After Hatching

The fry size should be around 6/8 in (20 mm). The selection is performed by looking from above. Tail is opened very clearly and tail core can be easily determined.

Main objective during the second round of culling is still the tail shape and the tail core. Tail core effects future development of the tail and must be payed special attention. During this round the fish number can be reduced from one third to one half.

Basic tail standard to follow:

Negative Points To Look For From Above:

1. tail bracelet comes to a point
2. tail core is rigid and thick (a), no tail shoulders (b) 
3. peduncle is not curved (a), tail tip is deformed (b) 
4. tail core is not in the middle
5. tail core overlaps (a), tail shoulders are not symmetrical (b)
6. tail shoulders indented, not open (a), tail core is pinched (b), bump on peduncle (c)

 

During the Second Round

The focus must be on the tail core. It requires a 100% screening. Usually the number is reduced from one third to a half.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● CULLING ROUND - I

First Culling Round - Two Weeks After Hatching

The fry size should be around 1/2 in (13 mm). The tail by now is clearly open and it is time to make first culling round. The selection is performed looking from above.

Main concern during this time is to look for the straight body line and open degree of tail shoulders, as well as open tail shape, as indicated in the picture below. Every other concern must be left for the next round.

The number of fish during the first round will be greatly reduces. First remove fish with obvious defects, then do more precise selection until the appropriate stocking density is reached. Once the needed stocking density reached you can only take out fish with obvious defects. Usually, the overall fry number should be reduced down to 10-15% after the first culling round is complete.


Negative Points To Look For (blue line shows defect):

1. Wild carp tail regression, very easy to recognize
2. The tail is not fully open; red line indicates desired angle of 160°-170° (ideally 180°), sometimes difficult to recognize, questionable cases can be left for round two 
3. The tail in not open, left and right sides irregular 
4. Twisted body or tail peduncle line (often happens when hatched in low water temperature) 
5. Tail core forms a dark line continuing into the tail peduncle, if clearly visible 
6. Tail split more then 1/2 of the center line length 
7. No tail split. Although, not a fault 
8. Asymmetrical tail shoulders 

Also look for:

• fish that can’t swim straight
• fish with poor growth rate
• fish with any other obvious defects

During the First Round

Leave the fish with symmetrical tail, that is open no less then 160°-170° (ideally 180°, as in picture #2). Examine the tail tension. Keep in mind that tail tension has tendency to soften with time.


_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● SELECTION METHODS

The ability to recognize strengths and weaknesses in fast growing ranchu fry is very important. However, no matter how good the quality of a ranchu is, there will always be some fault.

It is wrong to look for all imperfections at once, when performing culling. The best is to seek out major drawbacks and leave off minor imperfections and not to overlook the fish's charm and overall appearance.

It takes years of experience and training to start recognizing of what is important and being able to balance between good traits and faults for achieving the iconic ranchu look.

Selecting Between the Good & the Poor Fish

During culling, skilled person will search for a good fish, while novice will often look for a bad fish. Partly, because it is easier to identify the bad fish first, especially when you have a little experience as what to look for. However, there are advantages and disadvantages in both methods.

Looking for a good fish:

• culling must start early 
• by selecting only good fish, the number is drastically reduced 
• promising fish can be overlooked 
• moderate to high experience is necessary 

Looking for a bad fish:

• promising fish can not be overlooked  
• time consuming 
• hard to dramatically reduce the number of fish
• suitable for a novice

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI

Defining Body Parts

The main body parts are identified as follows: head is from mouth to the edge of the gill cover, body is from gill cover to the vent below tail. The environment and grooming techniques will have a big impact on developing ranchu head, body and tail.

For body part names please refer to this article.

Building Ranchu Foundation

There is an old Japanese saying “Good ranchu head is created before the color change”. For the head-growth to develop properly, it needs a good scull structure, as a foundation. A good foundation must be selected and formed in kuroko before the change of color. During this time it is important to achieve balanced Dragon or Lion Head (more about ranchu standards here). 

If any combination of head-growth below occurs, the head will appear unbalanced:

• growth on the top of the head, no growth on the gill plates 
• growth evenly develops over the entire head  
• growth develops on cheeks and under eyes only 

Delays in water changes help to suppress active fish movement and aids in developing head-growth at an early stage.

To Promote Head-Growth Development

Food is very important in developing head-growth. Feeding protein reach diet is a must. Silkworms, earthworms, bloodworms (can be frozen) are all high in protein and effective. Genetic background is also important.

Suggestions on promoting head-growth development:

• feed plankton, bloodworms, green water 
• reduce water changes to suppress movement 
• make sure the body develops properly 

Pond depth is not known to effect head-growth development. To develop a good ranchu, balancing of the whole body and head must be achieved, and not just the head-growth.

To Promote Funtan (cheeks)

Feeding bloodworm and green algae will help in developing funtan. Suppress movement by extending intervals between the water changes and raising ranchu in green water.

To Promote Body & Head Development

It is important to develop a good skeleton in kuroko before the color change. Good balance between the head and body is very important. Preference should be given to longer bodies with wide back and peduncle, which will balance well with the size of the head.

To make back wider and increase the width between the eyes:

• feed enough 
• use green water 
• slightly increase the stocking density to suppress active movement 

Beware that with increased stocking density vertical body growth will be suppressed.

How to Make Good Back

Water depth is very important in formation of a good back shape in fry. There is an old Japanese saying “Shallow water gives gently curved back, deep water gives round back” makes a good point. 

Water depth at 4 in (10cm) during the fry development produces gently curved back, while water depth around 3.3 ft (1m) gives more rounded shape. Genetics are also important in developing the right back.

Tail Tension

Tail shape is very important and is greatly dependent on grooming technique. However, if you only pursue creating a good tail, you will loose on fish health and overall quality. It is a trade-off to make a good tail and to keep fish health. It is difficult to do and one has to find a balance.

Factors that loosen tail tension:

• weak tail shoulders 
• excessive exercise 
• large pond size
• pond with no shade or over shaded 
• strong aeration 
• often water changes 
• appropriate or slightly lower stocking density 

Factors that improve tail tension:

• strong tail shoulders 
• less exercise 
• small pond size
• pond with sun/shade balance 
• weak aeration 
• use of green water 
• high or low stocking density 

Making a Good Tail Before the Color Change

To create a good tail, you must select kuroko with tail shoulders that are open at 160-180° and have a strong tail core.

                                                          

To make a tail shoulder curve like in a bow (bow and arrow), the fish must swim moderately to finish formation before the color change. If the curve increases it may result in weak tension and possible collapse of the tail shoulders.

Making the Tail Core

Water depth will effect the tail core in fry. The depth at 4 in (10cm) during development is necessary. There is a tendency for the tail core either to fall lower if the water depth is too shallow or rise up if the depth is too deep.

After the tail is formed and the core is established in kuroko stage, it is not effected as much by the water depth. Still, as a general rule, it is a good idea to keep the water depth at 6-8 in (15-20cm) during ranchu development. Also, increased exercise may result in softening of the tail core, as well as loss of the tail tension.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● RAISING AND GROOMING FRY

Keep A Diary

Write down everything that has to do with breeding and progress of your ranchu. Documenting when and what is a good practice and creates an important database for your future reference.

Water Temperature During Hatching

68 F (20°C) is optimal water temperature for developing fertilized eggs. If the temperature is lover, fry will not hatch all at the same time and there will be a high percentage of malformed fish. Temperatures above 68 F (20°C) will induce egg development, resulting in higher percentage of tail regression to original "wild" carp. Controlling water temperature by shading and/or using a heater is necessary.

Water temperature and timing from spawning till hatching:

• 57 F (14°C) - hatching on the 7th day 
• 61 F (16°C) - hatching on the 6th day 
• 64 F (18°C) - hatching in 5 ½ days 
• 68 F (20°C) - hatching on the 5th day 
• 71 F (22°C) - hatching in 4 ½ days 
• 75 F (24°C) - hatching on the 4th day 

Watch the water quality, as it can deteriorate quickly after spawning, due to unfertilized eggs and milt remains. It is best to transfer the eggs or change water right after spawning and keep the temperature constant at 68 F (20°C). In some cases, adding drops of methylene blue helps to prevent fungal growth on ranchu eggs.

Feeding The Fry

The fry are born with a yolk sac that provides them with nutrients for a couple of days. Start feeding the fry on the 2nd day after hatching.

It is very important to provide enough food for the fry to keep up with their high growth rate. When feeding live food, the portion size is not important. The fry must eat as much as they need and any time they want. Digestion time is short. There should be a constant supply of live food, as it gets eaten from morning till evening. One of the most accessible live foods for fry is freshly hatched brine shrimp. Read more on brine shrimp here.

When feeding frozen food or micro pallets, the portion size need to be observed, as overfeeding can spoil the water fast. A single dose should be of what fry can eat in 5 min. Digestion time is longer. Intervals between feedings must reflect digestion times, but feeding must be preformed often.

Water Changes & Fry

It is very important to keep constant temperature during the water changes. Even small temperate fluctuations may weaken or kill very sensitive at this stage fry. Also, watch the aeration. Strong aeration can damage the fry, adequately adjust air pump pressure to minimize any water turbulence. 

Its best not to transfer very young fry during the water change, but scoop as much water as you can and replace it with fresh. When fry has grown a little it will handle the transfer better, still be very carful scooping it during the water change, to prevent any injury. At this time it is best to have two containers and alternate them during the water change.

Filamentous Green Algae & Fry

Due to higher stocking density and/or food left in the water, filamentous green algae or Spirogyra can grow very rapidly. This algae produces long hair-like strings and if eaten by fry will get stuck in their small bodies, coming out through the gills or vent. It can not be removed and will eventually kill the fry.

Adjusting stocking density, regular water changes and cleaning the container will keep it under control.

Growth Rate

Learn to determine proper stocking density. This will insure that the fry doesn’t die and will promote faster development. Balancing the amount of food and stocking density is important for a healthy development of the fry and to prevent a number of diseases.

It is important to make fry growing as fast as possible. For example, for the fish hatched in April, a goal would be to have the fish reaching 4 in (10 cm) in length by the fall. 

Growth rate of the fry indicating its healthy development:

• 1st week - 3/8 in (10mm) 
• 2nd week - 1/2 in (13 mm) 
• 3rd week - 5/8 in (16 mm) 
• 1st month - 6/8 in (20 mm) 
• 7/8 in (22 mm) increase in the 2nd month - 1 5/8 in (42 mm) 
• 1/2 in (13 mm) increase in the 3rd month - 2 1/8 in (55 mm) 
• 5/8 in (15 mm) increase in the 4th month - 2 6/8 in (70 mm) 
• 5/8 in (15 mm) increase in the 5th month - 3 3/8 in (85 mm) 
• 1/2 in (12 mm) increase in the 6th month - 3 2/8 in (97 mm) 
• 5/16 in (8 mm) increase in the 7th month - 4 1/8 in (105 mm) 

If you have achieved the above growth rates, look for more ways to improve. If you are behind these growth rates, increase one or all of the following:

• food amount 
• water changes 
• adjust stocking density

Effect of Stocking Density On Tosai Ranchu

Always pay attention to stocking density for the fry in its first year. High density will cause illness in fish and delays in development. During this period you want for the fish to grow lengthwise and loosen stiffness in their tails. Do regular water changes before water spoils. Regularly remove waist and uneaten food.

High Density:
movement is restricted, high probability of gill disease, growth is slow, rapid water quality deterioration, tail shoulders and core remain hard and make it difficult to swim

Somewhat Low Density:
water quality is maintained, chances of illness are low, growth is higher in width and normal in length, competitive spirit and appetite is good, only tail core softens.

Low Density:
water may deteriorate causing illness even though it looks clean, growth in length is much suppressed, vertical growth is slower. Due to lack of competition between the ranchu, their appetite is lower, they swim less and because of that both tail shoulders and core remains stiff

Appropriate Density:

water quality is maintained, growth is accelerated in both length and width, better appetite and good competitive spirit, swims more. Both tail shoulders and core softening which helps to swim better. Adjust stocking density by culling. It is important to identify quality ranchu as early as possible to maintain appropriate stocking density. 

Appropriate ranchu count per 3.3 ft² (1 m²) container that is 4 in (10 cm) gradually increasing to 10 in (25 cm) deep:

• up to 0.6 in (1.5 cm) long fish - up to 100
• 0.8 in (2 cm) long fish - up to 60
• 1 1/8 in (3 cm) long fish - up to 50
• 1 5/8 in (4 cm) long fish - up to 40
• 2 3/8 in (6 cm) long fish - up to 20
• 4 in (10 cm) long fish - up to 5 

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE

Sunlight

It is necessary to have at least 3 hours of sunlight a day. Sunlight is very important for a healthy ranchu and aids in brighter colors and it is instrumental for photosynthesizing phytoplankton and wall algae growth, sustaining healthy environment. As a positive side effect, sunlight's ultraviolet rays are anti-bactericidal. Watch for ranchu getting too stimulated by sunlight, as excessive swimming may weaken their tail tension, especially when young.

Shading

Strong direct sunlight can cause deterioration of ranchu physical condition and with water depth of only 6-10 in (15-25 cm) the pond can get easily overheated. It is important to shade the pond if water temperature rises near or above 86 F (30°C). However, avoid excessive shading, as it reduces the sense of seasons in ranchu.

Cheese cloth, synthetic shade cloth or bamboo/reed blinds can be used to shade the pond. It is suggested to position shading material 6.6 ft (2 m) above the water surface to provide sufficient ventilation and gas exchange.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● NOTES ON GREEN WATER AND WATER CHANGE

There is an old Japanese saying “Ranchu is made with green water”. When viewed under the microscope, green water is composed of plankton - microscopic animals, green algae, cyanobacteria (blue-green “algae”) and diatoms (brown-golden algae), which freely float in the body of water that is exposed to sunlight. Plankton is rich in protein, minerals and vitamins.

Green water isn't always used for ranchu, in fact, most modern ranchu keepers will not encourage green water. However, if the ranchu pond is exposed to bright sunlight (especially outdoors) and warm temperatures, it most likely will develop green water. If you decide to explore the green water method, then this chapter is for you.

The effects of green water on ranchu:

• anorexigenic - fish has less appetite for additional food, due to constant feeding on plankton; reduce amount of given food 
• motor inhabitory suppression - fish growth less lengthwise and tend to become rounder and bulkier 
• green water holds temperature better with less fluctuation 
• improves physical condition of the fish 
• improves color of the fish

Color of Green Water

 
It takes experience to master green water. This method will require much more attention from the keeper to monitor the condition of water. There are two types of green water - green and brown in color, both have equal effect. Both types are often seen when the temperatures start to drop. The green or brown color of the water is determined by the balance of microorganisms.

Signs of Green Water Quality Deterioration

One of the signs of declining water quality is the formation of bubbles from aeration on the surface of the water. If the bubbles form a circle greater then 2 ft (60 cm) in diameter, it indicates that the water quality is deteriorating. When green water is used, one must observe how dark and opaque it gets. It must be kept similar to the transparency of Japanese green leaf tea (not matcha 抹茶 - ceremonial green tea). If green water suddenly changes in color or opacity, or CLEARS - 100% water change is necessary as soon as possible. Green water deterioration can occur rapidly and needs a quick response, or the fish will suffer. Overfeeding is often the cause of this. 

Signs of water deterioration:

• aeration bubbles are spread over 2 ft (60 cm) in diameter 
• green water darkens rapidly or clears 
• fish develops gas bubbles disease

Green Water Changes 

Best if water change is done in the morning on a sunny day. If tap water is used, it needs to be conditioned before use.

Temperature and water change proportions of green and fresh water:

• 32-54 F (0-12°C) - only replenish what was evaporated 
• 55-64 F (13-18°C) - when water deteriorates, use half old and half fresh water 
• 65-75 F (19-24°C) - when water deteriorates, use a little of old water and mostly fresh water 
• 76-97 F (25-36°C) - when water deteriorates, change 100% for fresh water 
• 98-100 F (37-38°C) - upper limit of the water temperature for ranchu, shade the pond 
• above 100 F (38°C) - temperature is NOT suitable for ranchu

Historically, there would be a white tile placed on the bottom of a ranchu pond. The ranchu master would then decide on the water change, based on how bright or muted the white tile would get.

Effect of Green Water Changes On Ranchu Appearance

100% water change increases ranchu activity and appetite. With frequent 100% water changes, fish will actively grow in length and the head-growth development will be slower. Also, the scale development may not keep up with the rate of growth, resulting in irregular scaling and color disadvantages. 

If the infrequency of 100% water changes is decreased, the fish will be less active and have less appetite, as the water "ages". Ranchu will grow less in length, encouraging development of the head-growth. It will also help to set finer scales.

Warning: Keeping ranchu in old water for too long may stunt the young ranchu and result in sickness.

When water changes increase:

• fish is active, increased appetite 
• fish grows in length 
• head-growth is poor 
• uneven scales development can occur 
• tail may fold 

When water changes decrease:

• fish activity is reduced and appetite decreased 
• growth in length is suppressed 
• head-growth develops 
• scales are finely set 
• due to less movement, tail will not fold 

This is also applies, when no green water method is used. Whether green water is used or not, balancing the time that ranchu spend in fresh and old water will affect the fish appearance. This alone, might be one of the most important conditions in raising traditional Japanese top view ranchu!

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Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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ATTEMPT AT CLONING RANCHU

I have stumbled upon a very interesting paper published in Zygote, Volume 20, Issue 1, February, 2012, pp.79-85, Cambridge University Press.

Attempt at cloning high-quality goldfish breed ‘Ranchu’ by fin-cultured cell nuclear transplantation

Daisuke Tanaka, Akito Takahashi, Akinori Takai, Hiromi Ohta and Koichi Ueno

Summary:

The viability of ornamental fish culture relies on the maintenance of high-quality breeds. To improve the profitability of culture operations we attempted to produce cloned fish from the somatic nucleus of the high-quality Japanese goldfish (Carassius auratus auratus) breed ‘Ranchu’. We transplanted the nucleus of a cultured fin-cell from an adult Ranchu into the non-enucleated egg of the original goldfish breed ‘Wakin’. Of the 2323 eggs we treated, 802 underwent cleavage, 321 reached the blastula stage, and 51 reached the gastrula stage. Two of the gastrulas developed until the hatching stage. A considerable number of nuclear transplants retained only the donor nucleus. Some of these had only a 2n nucleus derived from the same donor fish. Our results provide insights into the process of somatic cell nuclear transplantation in teleosts, and the cloning of Ranchu.

Vocabulary:

Cleavage - is the division of cells in the early embryo.

Blastula stage - is a hollow sphere of cells, referred to as blastomeres, surrounding an inner fluid-filled cavity called the blastocoele formed during an early stage of embryonic development in animals.

Gastrula stage - early stage during which the single-layered blastula is reorganized into a multilayered structure.

Teleost - a large group comprising all ray-finned fishes.

2017 © Alexander Vasiljev