A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● CULLING ROUND - II

Second Culling Round - One Month After Hatching

The fry size should be around 6/8 in (20 mm). The selection is performed by looking from above. Tail is opened very clearly and tail core can be easily determined.

Main objective during the second round of culling is still the tail shape and the tail core. Tail core effects future development of the tail and must be payed special attention. During this round the fish number can be reduced from one third to one half.

Basic tail standard to follow:

Negative Points To Look For From Above:

1. tail bracelet comes to a point
2. tail core is rigid and thick (a), no tail shoulders (b) 
3. peduncle is not curved (a), tail tip is deformed (b) 
4. tail core is not in the middle
5. tail core overlaps (a), tail shoulders are not symmetrical (b)
6. tail shoulders indented, not open (a), tail core is pinched (b), bump on peduncle (c)

 

During the Second Round

The focus must be on the tail core. It requires a 100% screening. Usually the number is reduced from one third to a half.

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Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● CULLING ROUND - I

First Culling Round - Two Weeks After Hatching

The fry size should be around 1/2 in (13 mm). The tail by now is clearly open and it is time to make first culling round. The selection is performed looking from above.

Main concern during this time is to look for the straight body line and open degree of tail shoulders, as well as open tail shape, as indicated in the picture below. Every other concern must be left for the next round.

The number of fish during the first round will be greatly reduces. First remove fish with obvious defects, then do more precise selection until the appropriate stocking density is reached. Once the needed stocking density reached you can only take out fish with obvious defects. Usually, the overall fry number should be reduced down to 10-15% after the first culling round is complete.


Negative Points To Look For (blue line shows defect):

1. Wild carp tail regression, very easy to recognize
2. The tail is not fully open; red line indicates desired angle of 160°-170° (ideally 180°), sometimes difficult to recognize, questionable cases can be left for round two 
3. The tail in not open, left and right sides irregular 
4. Twisted body or tail peduncle line (often happens when hatched in low water temperature) 
5. Tail core forms a dark line continuing into the tail peduncle, if clearly visible 
6. Tail split more then 1/2 of the center line length 
7. No tail split. Although, not a fault 
8. Asymmetrical tail shoulders 

Also look for:

• fish that can’t swim straight
• fish with poor growth rate
• fish with any other obvious defects

During the First Round

Leave the fish with symmetrical tail, that is open no less then 160°-170° (ideally 180°, as in picture #2). Examine the tail tension. Keep in mind that tail tension has tendency to soften with time.


_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● RAISING AND GROOMING FRY

Keep A Diary

Write down everything that has to do with breeding and progress of your ranchu. Documenting when and what is a good practice and creates an important database for your future reference.

Water Temperature During Hatching

68 F (20°C) is optimal water temperature for developing fertilized eggs. If the temperature is lover, fry will not hatch all at the same time and there will be a high percentage of malformed fish. Temperatures above 68 F (20°C) will induce egg development, resulting in higher percentage of tail regression to original "wild" carp. Controlling water temperature by shading and/or using a heater is necessary.

Water temperature and timing from spawning till hatching:

• 57 F (14°C) - hatching on the 7th day 
• 61 F (16°C) - hatching on the 6th day 
• 64 F (18°C) - hatching in 5 ½ days 
• 68 F (20°C) - hatching on the 5th day 
• 71 F (22°C) - hatching in 4 ½ days 
• 75 F (24°C) - hatching on the 4th day 

Watch the water quality, as it can deteriorate quickly after spawning, due to unfertilized eggs and milt remains. It is best to transfer the eggs or change water right after spawning and keep the temperature constant at 68 F (20°C). In some cases, adding drops of methylene blue helps to prevent fungal growth on ranchu eggs.

Feeding The Fry

The fry are born with a yolk sac that provides them with nutrients for a couple of days. Start feeding the fry on the 2nd day after hatching.

It is very important to provide enough food for the fry to keep up with their high growth rate. When feeding live food, the portion size is not important. The fry must eat as much as they need and any time they want. Digestion time is short. There should be a constant supply of live food, as it gets eaten from morning till evening. One of the most accessible live foods for fry is freshly hatched brine shrimp. Read more on brine shrimp here.

When feeding frozen food or micro pallets, the portion size need to be observed, as overfeeding can spoil the water fast. A single dose should be of what fry can eat in 5 min. Digestion time is longer. Intervals between feedings must reflect digestion times, but feeding must be preformed often.

Water Changes & Fry

It is very important to keep constant temperature during the water changes. Even small temperate fluctuations may weaken or kill very sensitive at this stage fry. Also, watch the aeration. Strong aeration can damage the fry, adequately adjust air pump pressure to minimize any water turbulence. 

Its best not to transfer very young fry during the water change, but scoop as much water as you can and replace it with fresh. When fry has grown a little it will handle the transfer better, still be very carful scooping it during the water change, to prevent any injury. At this time it is best to have two containers and alternate them during the water change.

Filamentous Green Algae & Fry

Due to higher stocking density and/or food left in the water, filamentous green algae or Spirogyra can grow very rapidly. This algae produces long hair-like strings and if eaten by fry will get stuck in their small bodies, coming out through the gills or vent. It can not be removed and will eventually kill the fry.

Adjusting stocking density, regular water changes and cleaning the container will keep it under control.

Growth Rate

Learn to determine proper stocking density. This will insure that the fry doesn’t die and will promote faster development. Balancing the amount of food and stocking density is important for a healthy development of the fry and to prevent a number of diseases.

It is important to make fry growing as fast as possible. For example, for the fish hatched in April, a goal would be to have the fish reaching 4 in (10 cm) in length by the fall. 

Growth rate of the fry indicating its healthy development:

• 1st week - 3/8 in (10mm) 
• 2nd week - 1/2 in (13 mm) 
• 3rd week - 5/8 in (16 mm) 
• 1st month - 6/8 in (20 mm) 
• 7/8 in (22 mm) increase in the 2nd month - 1 5/8 in (42 mm) 
• 1/2 in (13 mm) increase in the 3rd month - 2 1/8 in (55 mm) 
• 5/8 in (15 mm) increase in the 4th month - 2 6/8 in (70 mm) 
• 5/8 in (15 mm) increase in the 5th month - 3 3/8 in (85 mm) 
• 1/2 in (12 mm) increase in the 6th month - 3 2/8 in (97 mm) 
• 5/16 in (8 mm) increase in the 7th month - 4 1/8 in (105 mm) 

If you have achieved the above growth rates, look for more ways to improve. If you are behind these growth rates, increase one or all of the following:

• food amount 
• water changes 
• adjust stocking density

Effect of Stocking Density On Tosai Ranchu

Always pay attention to stocking density for the fry in its first year. High density will cause illness in fish and delays in development. During this period you want for the fish to grow lengthwise and loosen stiffness in their tails. Do regular water changes before water spoils. Regularly remove waist and uneaten food.

High Density:
movement is restricted, high probability of gill disease, growth is slow, rapid water quality deterioration, tail shoulders and core remain hard and make it difficult to swim

Somewhat Low Density:
water quality is maintained, chances of illness are low, growth is higher in width and normal in length, competitive spirit and appetite is good, only tail core softens.

Low Density:
water may deteriorate causing illness even though it looks clean, growth in length is much suppressed, vertical growth is slower. Due to lack of competition between the ranchu, their appetite is lower, they swim less and because of that both tail shoulders and core remains stiff

Appropriate Density:

water quality is maintained, growth is accelerated in both length and width, better appetite and good competitive spirit, swims more. Both tail shoulders and core softening which helps to swim better. Adjust stocking density by culling. It is important to identify quality ranchu as early as possible to maintain appropriate stocking density. 

Appropriate ranchu count per 3.3 ft² (1 m²) container that is 4 in (10 cm) gradually increasing to 10 in (25 cm) deep:

• up to 0.6 in (1.5 cm) long fish - up to 100
• 0.8 in (2 cm) long fish - up to 60
• 1 1/8 in (3 cm) long fish - up to 50
• 1 5/8 in (4 cm) long fish - up to 40
• 2 3/8 in (6 cm) long fish - up to 20
• 4 in (10 cm) long fish - up to 5 

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● BREEDING AND SPAWNING

Choosing a Breeder Ranchu

There is on old Japanese saying in ranchu circles “Chose male ranchu for its good tale and female ranchu for its thick body and head”. Another old saying is “Choose ranchu with a good tail from the right environment”. 

A good tail of a first-class ranchu doesn’t only come from its genetic heritage. The environment, where the ranchu was raised will effect the tail quality and strength. The key is to combine a good genetic foundation with the right environment.

Grooming ranchu in the right environment will help to develop a great quality fish. It is not necessary to breed a show champion ranchu to get first-class offsprings. Raising fry with a perfect tail in a poor environment will not yield good results either.

A good tail is considered when the line in the center of the tail or tail core, or midrib (o-shin) is straight and extends outward firmly. Also, tail shoulders (o-gata) should be at 160-180° and not too stiff, but also not too soft. Please refer to "Defining What Is What" to identify ranchu body parts.

Mistakes Made In Selecting Seed Ranchu 

Tail shape is often overlooked and the preference is given to the head shape and overall looks while selecting a breeder fish.

The head shape and proportion to the rest of the body is important, but if you really want to breed a first-class ranchu, great attention must be given to choosing a good tail. That is where true art of ranchu breeding is.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● AERATION

Adequate aeration is important in supplying water with oxygen. It also aids in better water circulation and equalizes temperature between different layers in the pond.

However, vigorous aeration can have a negative impact on developing ranchu, especially their tale formation. It is very important to bring aeration to its minimum or avoid it all together during eggs hatching and fry development and, when the tail starts to form and open.

Advantages of aeration:

• supply of oxygen to the water 
• release of carbon dioxide from the water 
• mixes water for more uniform water temperature 
• delays deterioration of the water quality 

Drawbacks of aeration:

• too much aeration loosens the tail tension and effects its shape 

Oxygenation And Water Surface 

Pond surface is important for oxygenation. If covering or shading the pond, attention should be paid not to obstruct the airflow and gas exchange. It is necessary to provide good ventilation if the pond is inside or when air temperatures are high.

The Amount of Dissolved Oxygen And Water Temperature

There are two factors that effect how much oxygen is dissolved in the water: temperature and pressure.

With shallow pond used for ranchu, water pressure does not have much effect. The amount of dissolved oxygen will primarily depend on increase or decrease in temperature. As a rule, with temperature increase the amount of dissolved oxygen will proportionally decrease:

• 32 F (0°C) - 14.16 ml/L 
• 34 F (1°C) - 13.77 ml/L 
• 41 F (5°C) - 12.37 ml/L 
• 50 F (10°C) - 10.92 ml/L 
• 59 F (15°C) - 9.76 ml/L 
• 64 F (18°C) - 9.18 ml/L 
• 68 F (20°C) - 8.84 ml/L 
• 77 F (25°C) - 8.11 ml/L 
• 86 F (30°C) - 7.53 ml/L 

In the summer, due to higher temperatures water oxygen levels are at their lowest. Ranchu requires more oxygen in the summer, as it is most active. If there is a lack of oxygen in the water, ranchu will be swimming “nose up” at the surface gasping for air. Sufficient aeration is required, as well as the appropriate stocking density.

Oxygenation And Green Water

Phytoplankton in green water photosynthesizes and supplies oxygen to the water. When water gets over saturated with dissolved oxygen, it starts to escape in the form of gas. So called “gas bubble disease” may occur, when oxygen gas bubbles appear in the fish bloodstream and become visible on gills, fins and eyes. It can cause a secondary infection or even be fatal.

When using green water, additional aeration may not be necessary. Still, keep an eye on oxygen level becoming too low.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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SEVEN WEEKS OF AGE

At 47 days from hatch, the BBR (kurroko) are growing strong. The tail peduncle (otsutsu) and scale bracelet (otsuke) are taking a great shape. The tail shoulders (ogata) are firm and holding the tail's shape well. At this stage, still barely noticeable, cheek protrusions (funtan) are starting to show. After previous culls I am left with 61 BBR. All BBR are now on a frozen bloodworm and brine shrimp diet, supplemented with Wolffia and algae growth. Soon enough I will start adding Saki Hikari purple pellets. For identifying ranchu body parts please see "Defining What Is What"

47 days old BBR

A TOUCH OF COLOR

Today is the 46th day since my ranchu hatched. And today, I have noticed the first signs of color change. One of the ranchu has a patch of lighter golden scales appeared on its back and side. As BBR will start to transition into CBR, it will be exciting to see what color patters will appear. Read about ranchu color patterns in my future post.

BLOSSOMING

While studying and working with orchids in my past career, I was fascinated to watch how orchid flowering buds develop into one of the most structurally complex flowers in nature. Under favorable conditions, each orchid will take its time to open their flowers until reaching perfection.

Phalaenopsis flowers at different stages of development

During raising ranchu fry, I noticed similar tendency in developing tails. At first the tail is narrow and small, opening slowly into that desired shape. It is true, not every fry will have that "perfect" tail, but with little or no experience it is easy to overlook what is good, while culling at an early stage.

Tail development in ranchu fry. From left to right: 11, 16, 21 and 35 days from hatch

For me these were the first culls and despite of a lot of reading and studying many photos, I was hesitant. One thing I learned is NOT to look for all imperfections at once. Each stage of ranchu development will open to more strength or weaknesses. As a novice, I used a method of choosing and culling poor fish, instead of seeking out fish with high quality and leaving the rest behind. This method is more forgiving and I had a better chance of keeping good quality fish and not overlooking it. However, with this method it is harder to keep the quantity down and it is very easy to overstock. The fry is growing fast and more culls must be performed. It is a must to maintain the right stocking density! As the number of BBR is reduced, I will be able to implement the reverse selection method and choose the best quality ranchu out of the rest.

Looking ahead, I think it might become more difficult to select, when BBR will start transitioning into CBR. Besides the physical standards one must seek perfect swimmers that ranchu are famous for and don't forget to pay attention to each fish personality.

THIRD CULL IS COMPLETED - DOWN TO 89

Third cull is done with only 89 ranchu remaining from nearly 600 initial fry number. The focus is still on the tail shape. Now it is more or less easy to spot any imperfections, still looking from above.

After the baby ranchu reached one month of age since hatching, I stopped feeding newly hatched brine shrimp and switched them to TDO Chroma Boost B2 granules, supplementing it with Wolffia and a grounded mixture of Ranchu Lord and Hikari Purple pellets. I have also started to give them frozen brine shrimp and soon frozen bloodworms. BBR are growing very fast and need most nutritious diet to develop a good foundation.

35 days old ranchu, 1.2 inches (3 cm) long with perfectly developing tail 

SECOND CULL - THE TAIL IS STILL IN FOCUS

On their 24th day since hatching the ranchu fry are 6/8 inches (20 mm) long, demonstrating excellent growth rate. The tails are now much more developed, with more recognizable traits. This round I was trying to determine six more types of tail and body deformities, in addition to five that I was seeking out during my first cull ("First Cull - It's All About The Tail"). I had to pay maximum attention, since this time there were so many criteria to adhere to. For the first cull I had to go through approximately 600 fry of which I kept 40%. After the second cull I kept only 60%, which left me with 130 individuals but fairly nice looking so far. The next cull will happen sometimes next month. Below, are the diagrams of tail's defects outlined in blue for cull #2.

DESIRED tail shape and
degree of openness

Curved spine line and
misaligned tail

Tail has no split in
the middle

Tail core is too thick
and rigid

Tail is open but
asymmetrical

Tail is split all the
way to peduncle

Tail is not open and
is asymmetrical

Tail side lobe tip
is deformed

Tail is not open. Red line
indicate desired angle

Tail core edges
overlap

Single,
regressed tail

Tail is not open, side lobes
extend too far back

NOT QUITE READY TO SHOW THEIR SIDE, BUT ...

Baby ranchu are not ready to be judged from the side until they are about 3 month old. But it is so exciting to see them taking the right shape. Twenty days ago they were barely animated larvae and now we are talking fish!

Side view of a ranchu fry on its twentieth day from hatching

THE TWENTIETH DAY OF RANCHU FRY

It is exciting to watch the ranchu fry grow. Almost every day, I notice changes in their look. At this time I feed them heavily with newly hatched brine shrimp as well as a mixture of ground pellet variety (Japan Ranchu Lord, Saki-Hikari Purple and Omega One Super Color Kelp) and Wolffia. The time between now and when they start changing color is EXTREMELY important. Their skull, skeleton and tail are forming now to become the foundation of a beautiful ranchu. If you miss this time, you miss the ranchu.

Ranchu on its twentieth day since hatching. The tail shape is coming through

AMONG KEEPERS

Two weeks since hatching, this ranchu fry is close to what I am looking for at this stage. Still, all attention is on the tail. I am eager to see how the tail will develop in the near future.

Ranchu on its sixteenth day after hatching

FIRST CULL - IT'S ALL ABOUT THE TAIL

Since the eggs hatched, I was culling any fry with deformed body as soon as I can identify it. But today, two weeks from hatching, I went through a major cull, ending up keeping only 40%.

The fry is now half an inch (13 mm) long. Even though the tail is now more or less defined, still, it is hard to detect its details and asymmetry between the tail lobes and shoulders, and the tail split. Today my goal was to select the fry with a straight body line and with the most open tail, which ideally should be 180 degrees, but not narrower than 160 degrees. The culling was done through looking from above. Below, I put together a few diagrams to illustrate what tail shape and development I was looking for. Misshaped tail is outlined in blue and should be the reason for disqualification. The photos are not of my actual fry and are used only for illustration purposes.

The next cull should be carried in about two weeks or when the fry reaches 6/8th of an inch (20 mm), and the tail is further developed with more details visible. I anticipate even greater reduction in numbers then.

Desired tail shape and
degree of openness 

Tail has no split in the middle

Single, regressed tail

Tail is not open. Red line indicates
degree of desired openness

Tail is not open and
is asymmetrical

Tail is open but asymmetrical 

TWO WEEKS OLD RANCHU FRY

Two weeks old today since hatching. The tails are almost fully open and some are looking fairly nice. First big cull will need to happen this or next week.

THE FOURTEENTH DAY

Today is fourteenth day since the eggs were fertilized or eleventh day since they hatched. Ranchu features are starting to be very noticeable. Back and tail peduncle curvature is forming. A few more days until the tail will be more open, showing desired traits.

Ranchu fry side view

Ranchu fry top view

THE TENTH DAY

Ranchu are eating, swimming, growing. Their little ranchu tails are starting to shape.

THE EIGHTH DAY - IT'S A FISH

Little ranchu are starting to look like a fish. Notice how the tail is forming into its ranchu shape. Brine shrimp still looks pretty large as a single bite. The ranchu must be pretty ferocious to tear apart and eat that shrimp.

The swimming bladder in the middle of the body helps the fry with buoyancy

THE SEVENTH DAY - ALL YOU CAN EAT BUFFET

I have been running brine shrimp culture for a couple of days now, starting a new batch every morning. I feed the fry a couple of times a day and since the baby brine shrimp is a live culture, the fry can eat all they want and can, and the food is always there. Brine shrimp will stay alive in fresh water for up to five hours.

Baby brine shrimp nutritional analysis (according to San Francisco Bay Brand, Inc.) - crude protein - min 55%, crude fat - min 18.3%, crude fiber - max 19%, beta carotene (hence the orange color), lipids, essential unsaturated fatty acids.

In addition, I started to add some algae from the walls of the main pond. The suspension of live brine shrimp, green algae and diatoms should give enough nutrition for rapidly developing ranchu.

Brine shrimp (Artemia salina): left - immature stage (nauplii), right - 24 hr old
Photo from Virginia Cooperative Extension website   

Ranchu fry bellies filled with orange brine shrimp nauplii

Not so pretty algae film on the pond's wall, but oh so tasty!

THE SIXTH DAY OF MIRACLE - BREAKING FREE

Some of the ranchu fry are starting to swim and are buoyant on their 6th day and this means they are hungry and are looking for food. For at last a month they will be eating daily hatched brine shrimp as their main diet. I will be also giving the fry some algae scraped from the main pond walls. At this time, their growth rate is enormous, as well as their appetite. More and more fry become free swimming and spending less time attached to the bottom and the sides of the tub.

The nursery tub equipped with the heater, air stone and adjusted water flow