A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● FEEDING REGIMENT

Amount of Food & Water temperature

Ranchu's physiological functions are greatly affected by the ambient water temperature. It is very important to adjust food type and amount in accordance with the water temperature. If not fed correctly, ranchu might develop indigestion problems and their immune system may get weaken, making them prone to decease.

• 32-43 F (0-6°C) - fish hibernate, no food is required
• 44-54 F (7-12°C) - physiological functions are slow; give only small amount of easily digestible food
• 55-64 F (13-18°C) - physiological functions are not to their fullest; increase the food amount carefully; use easily digestible food
• 65-75 F (19-24°C) - fish is active, food amount must be increased 
• 76-86 F (25-30°C)- very active growth; provide enough food, but watch for signs of obesity 
• 87-97 F (31-36°C) - fish appetite is lower; provide appropriate amount of food
• 98-100 F (37-38°C) - upper limit of water temperature for ranchu
• above 100 F (38°C) - temperature is harmful for ranchu

Feeding Depends On the Weather & Seasons

Adjust amount of food according to the weather and season, especially for the fish kept outside. If the water temperature changes due to the air temperature drop or rain, reduce the amount of food. Feed 2 hrs before the rain forecast. When temperature rises back up, increase food amount.

During hot summer days feeding in the morning is preferable due to cooler water temperature. In colder seasons, when water temperature starts to drop in the afternoon, feeding late may cause indigestion. Suggested feeding times during the sunny weather for ranchu that are kept outside:

• spring - from 7:30am till 3pm 
• summer - from 6am to 4pm; watch for the rain that will lower water temperature; to make ranchu grow faster, give food 2 hrs before it gets dark. 
• fall - from 7:30am till 3pm 
• winter - at low temperatures no food is usually given; if given, should be around noon 

Amount of a Single Feeding

Ranchu has no stomach. In order to provide proper digestion time, the single food portion must be eaten within 5 min. Try to avoid food leftovers, as it will effect the water quality.

Number of Feedings

It is best to feed after previously given food has been digested. In the warm temperature you can feed as soon as previous food has been digested, up to five feedings per day for young fish, when a single portion can be eaten in 5 min. Remember different foods have different digestion times.

Feeding On the Day of Water Change

There is an old saying: “Refrain from food on the day of new water”. With a large water change the fish is stressed and its physical condition is weakened. 

“Refrain” however, doesn’t mean to completely avoid food. Right after the water change the fish' somatic nerve system is stimulated by the fresh water, making them more active. At the same time gastrointestinal function is reduced. After 30 minutes of fish being in the new water, somatic nerve system usually calms down, normalizing functions of gastrointestinal tract and releasing stress. At this time you can give a single portion.

When Fish is Not Eating

Not eating can be influenced by several factors. It is important to quickly determine what causes it and take an action:

• fish condition - improve the way you feed, check for disease or start a treatment 
• food quality - change the food type, change the way the food is stored 
• water quality - watch for water quality deterioration, perform regular water changes 
• environment - make sure water temperature is between 64-86 F (18-30°C), improve aeration and shading, adjust stocking density of the fish 

Prevention of Fish Obesity

• moderate diet, restrain from giving too much food
• let wall algae to grow, use green water 
• balance wider variety of foods and use high quality pellets
• extend interval between water changes
• exercise fish, but care not to lose the tail tension and shape 
• observe water temperature and seasons and adjust the food regiment accordingly
• maintain appropriate stocking density to keep fish competitive 

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Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION

● WATER

● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE

● WATER TEMPERATURE

● AERATION

● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE

● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU

● FOOD

● FEEDING REGIMENT

● BREEDING & SPAWNING

● RAISING & GROOMING FRY

● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI

● CULLING

● SELECTION METHODS

● CULLING ROUND - I

● CULLING ROUND - II

● CULLING ROUND - III

● CULLING ROUND - IV

● CULLING ROUND - V

● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● FOOD

Ranchu are omnivores and prefer a wide variety of foods. To insure health and reduce obesity, their diet has to be balanced with proteins, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins.

Foods high in protein:

• live or frozen brine shrimp
• daphnia
• bloodworm
• pellets

Foods high in vitamins and minerals:

• algae
• duckweed
• chlorella and phytoplankton
• spirulina
• pumpkin
• spinach
• wolffia

Food Types And Digestion Times

Food with less moisture content takes longer to digest. A safe interval between feedings can be placed at 2 hours, however digestion time will change depending on the amount of food given. Approximate digestion times:

• daphnia, brine shrimp, wolffia, duckweed - 1 hr
• bloodworm - 1 ½ hr
• pellets - 2 hrs. 

Daphnia

One of the foods that is central to ranchu development. Easily digestible and highly absorbent, daphnia is high in nutrients and contributes to a maximum fry growth potentials.

Bloodworm

Another food that is very important to ranchu. It has superior digestion and absorption rate. High in protein, it promotes head-growth and overall development.

Brine Shrimp

With excellent absorption rate and nutritional value it is a good alternative to daphnia. Newly hatched brine shrimp is excellent for feeding fry.

Vegetables

Low in fat and protein, vegetables are rich in vitamins, minerals and organic pigments, and are very important supplement. They promote colors and overall health, especially at young stages. Most used vegetables are: phytoplankton, green algae, chlorerlla, spirulina, duckweed, pumpkin, wolffia and spinach among others.

Commercial Pellets

Due to low moisture content, digestion rate is the slowest, up to 2 hrs and more. Best if pellets are alternated with easily digestible foods, e.g. bloodworm. Due to high nutritional value and longer digestion times, feeding only with pellets may cause obesity and requires carful observation. There are many brands that offer ranchu pellets. However, not all of them are equal in quality and value. My own preference is Azayaka Brand ranchu pellets. Here is my article on different brands of pellets, their comparison and analyzes.

Pigments

Organic pigments or carotenoids like luteins (for yellows) and astaxanthin (for reds) are very important for developing fish coloration. Incorporating spinach, pumpkin, duckweed, wolffia and color enhancing pellets is beneficial.

Wolffia

Wolffia is the world’s smallest flowering plant that belongs to a group of duckweeds. It is easily digestible, contributes to color development (especially yellow) and overall health of a young fish. It also helps to maintain a slim belly. Wolffia can be easily substituted with duckweed.

Benefits of Wolffia or Duckweed:

• promotes head-growth development
• promotes slim belly and good physical shape
• easily digestible
• rich in vitamins and minerals
• high in protein
• positively effects color development
• shades the water and helps to lower water temperature
• removes access of oxygen and supplies carbon dioxide
• utilizes ammonia 

Cultivating Wolffia or Duckweed:

• requires a lot of sunlight
• tap water can be used
• provide light aeration
• will propagate very rapidly in 86 F (30°C)
• keep water temperature under 97 F (36°C)
• in winter, if temperatures are low, will go dormant and will sink to the bottom

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Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU

Concrete Pond

Concrete has been a long time favorite material for building traditional ranchu ponds. Common sizes are 6.6 ft x 6.6 ft x 10in (2m x 2m x 25cm) and 5ft x 5ft x 10in (1.5m x 1.5m x 25cm). Square size is easy to arrange in succession, maintain and clean.

In the past, there was an indentation made on the bottom of the pond in the shape of a square, for collecting and removing of debris and for the fish to be kept during the water change. Also, there was a white tile placed on the bottom of the pond to determine translucency and color of the green water. However, nowadays, these features are not used.

Fiberglass or Polyethylene Pond

These materials are strong and durable and are commonly used in modern days and have good qualities for thermal insulation. Although, if the walls are too thin the pond might get deformed under the water weight.

Plastic Pond 

Any large plastic container, e.g. cement mixing tub or children’s pool, etc, can be used, as long as it's depth is between 9-12in (22 - 30cm). These containers are durable, cheap and come in different sizes, shapes and colors. Quite suitable for raising fry and young ranchu.

Pond Liner

It is a good option for DIY and can be used to create pond of any size and shape. Although, it is more prone to leaks.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

_________________________________________________________________________________

A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE

Sunlight

It is necessary to have at least 3 hours of sunlight a day. Sunlight is very important for a healthy ranchu and aids in brighter colors and it is instrumental for photosynthesizing phytoplankton and wall algae growth, sustaining healthy environment. As a positive side effect, sunlight's ultraviolet rays are anti-bactericidal. Watch for ranchu getting too stimulated by sunlight, as excessive swimming may weaken their tail tension, especially when young.

Shading

Strong direct sunlight can cause deterioration of ranchu physical condition and with water depth of only 6-10 in (15-25 cm) the pond can get easily overheated. It is important to shade the pond if water temperature rises near or above 86 F (30°C). However, avoid excessive shading, as it reduces the sense of seasons in ranchu.

Cheese cloth, synthetic shade cloth or bamboo/reed blinds can be used to shade the pond. It is suggested to position shading material 6.6 ft (2 m) above the water surface to provide sufficient ventilation and gas exchange.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● AERATION

Adequate aeration is important in supplying water with oxygen. It also aids in better water circulation and equalizes temperature between different layers in the pond.

However, vigorous aeration can have a negative impact on developing ranchu, especially their tale formation. It is very important to bring aeration to its minimum or avoid it all together during eggs hatching and fry development and, when the tail starts to form and open.

Advantages of aeration:

• supply of oxygen to the water 
• release of carbon dioxide from the water 
• mixes water for more uniform water temperature 
• delays deterioration of the water quality 

Drawbacks of aeration:

• too much aeration loosens the tail tension and effects its shape 

Oxygenation And Water Surface 

Pond surface is important for oxygenation. If covering or shading the pond, attention should be paid not to obstruct the airflow and gas exchange. It is necessary to provide good ventilation if the pond is inside or when air temperatures are high.

The Amount of Dissolved Oxygen And Water Temperature

There are two factors that effect how much oxygen is dissolved in the water: temperature and pressure.

With shallow pond used for ranchu, water pressure does not have much effect. The amount of dissolved oxygen will primarily depend on increase or decrease in temperature. As a rule, with temperature increase the amount of dissolved oxygen will proportionally decrease:

• 32 F (0°C) - 14.16 ml/L 
• 34 F (1°C) - 13.77 ml/L 
• 41 F (5°C) - 12.37 ml/L 
• 50 F (10°C) - 10.92 ml/L 
• 59 F (15°C) - 9.76 ml/L 
• 64 F (18°C) - 9.18 ml/L 
• 68 F (20°C) - 8.84 ml/L 
• 77 F (25°C) - 8.11 ml/L 
• 86 F (30°C) - 7.53 ml/L 

In the summer, due to higher temperatures water oxygen levels are at their lowest. Ranchu requires more oxygen in the summer, as it is most active. If there is a lack of oxygen in the water, ranchu will be swimming “nose up” at the surface gasping for air. Sufficient aeration is required, as well as the appropriate stocking density.

Oxygenation And Green Water

Phytoplankton in green water photosynthesizes and supplies oxygen to the water. When water gets over saturated with dissolved oxygen, it starts to escape in the form of gas. So called “gas bubble disease” may occur, when oxygen gas bubbles appear in the fish bloodstream and become visible on gills, fins and eyes. It can cause a secondary infection or even be fatal.

When using green water, additional aeration may not be necessary. Still, keep an eye on oxygen level becoming too low.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● WATER TEMPERATURE

Ranchu Body Temperature

Ranchu are ectothermic animals, which means their body temperature matches the temperature of the environment. They are also eurythermal, meaning that they are able to tolerate a wide range of temperatures. Depending on the environmental conditions, ranchu will adjust their metabolism.

Optimal temperature for ranchu active growth is between 64-86 F (18-30°C). As the water temperature rises above 86 F (30 C), ranchu activity becomes suppressed, negatively impacting their development. When the temperature drops below 64 F (18 C), ranch's metabolism begin to slow down. Below 43 F (6 C), ranchu enter a hibernation state. Cold temperatures, however, are part of ranchu's natural life cycle and are beneficial. As a temperate climate fish, ranchu enjoy all four seasons.

Temperature Fluctuations

Ranchu is adaptable to a wide temperature range, but only if the temperature changes gradually. It is best if the temperature increases no more then 1.8 F (1°C) degrees per day. A sudden increase of 9 F (5°C) degrees can be lethal, especially for fry and young fish. In an emergency, if the water temperature must be increased quickly, for disease treatment, it has to be done in increments of no more than 4-5 F (2-3°C) degrees per day until the desired temperature is reached. Decreasing the temperature is much better tolerated by the fish, but a gradual change is best.

It is important that the water temperature difference between early morning and noon fluctuates no more than 18 F (10 C) degrees. If it exceeds that - shading, ventilation or a bigger container is required.

Ranchu Activity & Water Temperature 

The range of water temperatures suitable for ranchu is between 30 and 100 F (-1 to +38°C). However, each temperature level dramatically effects the fish's physiology:

• 32-43 F (0-6°C) - full hibernation state, ranchu are inactive
• 44-54 F (7-12°C) - semi-hibernation, physiological functions are slow
• 55-64 F (13-18°C) - intermediate state between hibernation and active state; physiological functions are not up to their fullest 
• 65-75 F (19-24°C) - fish is ready to spawn, gonads develop; pathogens become more active 
• 76-86 F (25-30°C) - active fish growth 
• 87-97 F (31-36°C) - fish growth supressed 
• 98-100 F (37-38°C) - upper water temperature limit for ranchu 
• above 100 F (38°C) - temperature is NOT suitable for ranchu 

Use of Heater 

Although, a heater isn't necessary for day-to-day ranchu keeping, it might be useful in some situations. For the most part, breeders use it to adjust spawning time, to incubate ranchu eggs and to control the beginning stages of ranchu fry. A heater can also be used to aid in treating some diseases.

Advantages:

• setting water temperature as desired 
• controlling to big of a temperature fluctuation during the day 
• to interrupt hibernation 
• adjusting spawning season 
• adjusting hatching date and promote fry growth 
• increase disease treatment outcome 

Drawbacks:

• difficult to keep the same water temperature during water changes 
• lack of four season temperatures may lead to obesity 
• temperatures that are kept the same, lead to more rapid water quality deterioration 
• electrical bill

________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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A WAY TO RAISE RANCHU ● NOTES ON GREEN WATER AND WATER CHANGE

There is an old Japanese saying “Ranchu is made with green water”. When viewed under the microscope, green water is composed of plankton - microscopic animals, green algae, cyanobacteria (blue-green “algae”) and diatoms (brown-golden algae), which freely float in the body of water that is exposed to sunlight. Plankton is rich in protein, minerals and vitamins.

Green water isn't always used for ranchu, in fact, most modern ranchu keepers will not encourage green water. However, if the ranchu pond is exposed to bright sunlight (especially outdoors) and warm temperatures, it most likely will develop green water. If you decide to explore the green water method, then this chapter is for you.

The effects of green water on ranchu:

• anorexigenic - fish has less appetite for additional food, due to constant feeding on plankton; reduce amount of given food 
• motor inhabitory suppression - fish growth less lengthwise and tend to become rounder and bulkier 
• green water holds temperature better with less fluctuation 
• improves physical condition of the fish 
• improves color of the fish

Color of Green Water

 
It takes experience to master green water. This method will require much more attention from the keeper to monitor the condition of water. There are two types of green water - green and brown in color, both have equal effect. Both types are often seen when the temperatures start to drop. The green or brown color of the water is determined by the balance of microorganisms.

Signs of Green Water Quality Deterioration

One of the signs of declining water quality is the formation of bubbles from aeration on the surface of the water. If the bubbles form a circle greater then 2 ft (60 cm) in diameter, it indicates that the water quality is deteriorating. When green water is used, one must observe how dark and opaque it gets. It must be kept similar to the transparency of Japanese green leaf tea (not matcha 抹茶 - ceremonial green tea). If green water suddenly changes in color or opacity, or CLEARS - 100% water change is necessary as soon as possible. Green water deterioration can occur rapidly and needs a quick response, or the fish will suffer. Overfeeding is often the cause of this. 

Signs of water deterioration:

• aeration bubbles are spread over 2 ft (60 cm) in diameter 
• green water darkens rapidly or clears 
• fish develops gas bubbles disease

Green Water Changes 

Best if water change is done in the morning on a sunny day. If tap water is used, it needs to be conditioned before use.

Temperature and water change proportions of green and fresh water:

• 32-54 F (0-12°C) - only replenish what was evaporated 
• 55-64 F (13-18°C) - when water deteriorates, use half old and half fresh water 
• 65-75 F (19-24°C) - when water deteriorates, use a little of old water and mostly fresh water 
• 76-97 F (25-36°C) - when water deteriorates, change 100% for fresh water 
• 98-100 F (37-38°C) - upper limit of the water temperature for ranchu, shade the pond 
• above 100 F (38°C) - temperature is NOT suitable for ranchu

Historically, there would be a white tile placed on the bottom of a ranchu pond. The ranchu master would then decide on the water change, based on how bright or muted the white tile would get.

Effect of Green Water Changes On Ranchu Appearance

100% water change increases ranchu activity and appetite. With frequent 100% water changes, fish will actively grow in length and the head-growth development will be slower. Also, the scale development may not keep up with the rate of growth, resulting in irregular scaling and color disadvantages. 

If the infrequency of 100% water changes is decreased, the fish will be less active and have less appetite, as the water "ages". Ranchu will grow less in length, encouraging development of the head-growth. It will also help to set finer scales.

Warning: Keeping ranchu in old water for too long may stunt the young ranchu and result in sickness.

When water changes increase:

• fish is active, increased appetite 
• fish grows in length 
• head-growth is poor 
• uneven scales development can occur 
• tail may fold 

When water changes decrease:

• fish activity is reduced and appetite decreased 
• growth in length is suppressed 
• head-growth develops 
• scales are finely set 
• due to less movement, tail will not fold 

This is also applies, when no green water method is used. Whether green water is used or not, balancing the time that ranchu spend in fresh and old water will affect the fish appearance. This alone, might be one of the most important conditions in raising traditional Japanese top view ranchu!

_________________________________________________________________________________

Links to published chapters:

● INTRODUCTION
● WATER
● NOTES ON GREEN WATER & WATER CHANGE
● WATER TEMPERATURE
● AERATION
● SUNLIGHT AND SHADE
● CONTAINERS FOR RAISING RANCHU
● FOOD
● FEEDING REGIMENT
● BREEDING & SPAWNING
● RAISING & GROOMING FRY
● GROOMING KUROKO AND TOSAI
● CULLING
● SELECTION METHODS
● CULLING ROUND - I
● CULLING ROUND - II
● CULLING ROUND - III
● CULLING ROUND - IV
● CULLING ROUND - V
● FORSEEING RANCHU CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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